10 Years Manufacturer 12″ rubber glove with cotton linning-rough finish sale to Rome

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Heavy duty rubber glove, made of 100% natural latex. 12″ length(31cm), rough finish, seamless, cotton lining, left/right hand, 210g/pair, 120pairs/case. Using for Isolater, dry box, blast cabinet, glove box, etc.


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"Quality first, Honesty as base, Sincere service and mutual profit" is our idea, in order to develop continuously and pursue the excellence. 10 Years Manufacturer 12″ rubber glove with cotton linning-rough finish sale to Rome, Let's cooperate hand in hand to jointly make a beautiful future. We sincerely welcome you to visit our company or contact us for cooperation!


Heavy duty rubber glove, made of 100% natural latex.

12″ length(31cm), rough finish, seamless, cotton lining, left/right hand, 210g/pair, 120pairs/case.

Using for Isolater, dry box, blast cabinet, glove box, etc.

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  • http://tinyurl.com/loqbfz3

    Video Highlights
    0:18 Kit includes
    0:37 First step before starting install
    1:20 Cutting to length
    3:04 Insulating the Chimney Liner
    4:29 How to lower into the chimney
    5:40 Next Step will be Attaching to the appliance
    6:00 Attaching the appliance adapter
    7:16 Installing the insert
    7:44 Installing the Top Plate
    8:51 Cutting the access liner off
    10:23 Attaching the Cap
    11:44 Silicone the screws

    Robert explains how to install Chimney Liner.

    Installing a stainless steel chimney liner is an easy and economical way to repair a deteriorated, unsafe, or inefficient chimney flue. You will be able to install a chimney liner after reading this and watching the video. You can do the job with common household tools. A chimney liner should be installed to reduce the chance of a carbon monoxide leak, chimney fire, and creosote buildup. Chimney liners also improve the energy efficiency of the appliance and makes fireplace maintenance easier.

    First, determine the appropriate size chimney liner for your specific setup. The chimney liner diameter size you will need will be the same size of the exhaust outlet on the appliance. The chimney liner length you will need will equal the height of the chimney. we recommend ordering slightly over that amount to give room for error.

    Only a few tools are needed for a successful chimney liner installation. You’ll need a tin snips (or a sawzall or hacksaw), drill and bit, flat head screw driver, caulk gun, work gloves, and safety glasses.

    Every basic chimney liner kit is going to come with four main components: the stainless steel chimney liner, connector (either a Tee connector or a Stove Top connector), top plate, and rain cap. This video shows a basic stove top installation.The top plate is going to be the main variable for a chimney liner kit.

    Start by using your knife and remove the plastic wrap that the liner is coiled in. Once you have the liner out, start to straighten the liner. Make sure to do this on the grass or a soft surface so you don’t puncture it. Straighten the liner out as best as you can. It does not need to be perfect as you will have to do some manipulation to get it down the chimney.

    After installing the insulation you will need to get the liner to the top of the chimney. Proceed to lower the liner down the chimney until you reach the damper or smoke shelf. You will need to do some adjustments when you get back inside to get it through this.

    Twisting the flexible liner will help you install the liner if you are getting caught or hung up on the chimney walls.

    Now you will need to head into the house to finish connecting the appliance.

    Once the stove connection has been installed correctly, it is time to connect the stove pipe to the stove. Most stove pipe comes with three screws per connection point. Use your drill and drive the screws into the horizontal part of the tee and through the exhaust collar of the stove. using furnace cement to secure and stop any leaks.

    Once the chimney liner is all the way down the flue to the point of the appliance, the next step is to connect the top plate to the top of the chimney. The main function for a top plate is to seal the existing flue from rain, wind and critters from entering the chimney. Start by using your caulk gun and a tube of weather resistant high-temp silicone to run a bead of silicone along the top edge of the clay flue.

    Next, thread the chimney liner through the round collar of the top plate so that the top plate is sitting on the top edge of the clay flue.

    When you have successfully installed the top plate, the next step is to cut the excess liner flush with the top of the collar of the top plate. Your sawzall or hacksaw will work just fine.

    The next step is to secure the rain cap to the top plate. The Cap will just slide over and then tighten the clamp.

    Congratulations, you have successfully installed a stainless steel, flexible chimney liner!

    Click Here:http://tinyurl.com/lxloa28 To see all of our Chimney Liners.



    JeffJag is a Denver, CO Abstract Artist who posts HD Time-Lapse and Stop Motion videos of his work on a bi-weekly basis. Prints and T-shirts — http://prints.jeffjag.com
    For more info — click SHOW MORE.

    Get the song — http://soundcloud.com/jeffjag/indigo-grove

    This one has been a while in the making, and it’s not the last video I’ll have for this drawing. More videos coming on a regular basis. This is video number 7 recorded on June 7th and 20th, 2013.

    MATERIALS:
    The drawing is called Amazing Realization, and it is an enormous pencil drawing on a 22″ x 30″ sheet of fine heavy bristol drawing paper. In the drawing, I use many 0.3mm mechanical pencils. I use mostly to HB and 2B graphite leads. I occasionally use paper shaders to blend the pencil, but again, the vast majority of it is hand shaded using a very careful amount of hand pressure.

    TECHNIQUES:
    Whenever I’m holding the pencil much further back from the tip, I’m allowing the pencil’s own weight to press down on the paper which makes for very soft shading. I am also not a robot drawing robot, so I use erasers. I use the white plastic erasers that work so well with drafting pencils, and the rubber gray kneadable erasers you can form into shapes. I like those for lightening areas which have been filled in too dark, and to keep my pencils from rolling off my drawing desk when I’m not using them. I use a horse hair eraser brush to remove eraser shavings from the drawing without smudging my work. I sometimes use a latex glove on my left hand to keep the oil of my hand from getting on the paper, and for a similar reason, I put a sheet of paper under my drawing hand to keep from smudging parts I’ve already drawn while shading.

    THE STORY:
    Last year I started a Kickstarter to make prints of my new drawing, Amazing Realization, for people who wanted them. This is quite an epic project which began in mid November 2012 and continues months into 2013. On January 1st 2013 the Kickstarter was successfully funded at over 200% of my goal. Now I’m just working away at finishing the drawing and doing what I can to show the making-of process along the way. The backers get email updates with new photos showing the progress of the drawing the night I work on it, and I release the photo updates of the drawing daily on my Art blog, http://artblog.jeffjag.com, my facebook fan page http://www.facebook.com/jeffjag.art and my twitter feed @jeffjag (all three feature the same daily content). Check out the kickstarter page and watch the video of me announcing the project on that page. http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/112182510/super-detailed-abstract-pencil-art-amazing-realiza – And if you want a print even though the kickstarter’s over, you can pre-order right on my website or blog through the Amazon button.

    TIME SPENT:
    I started this drawing in November 2012 and I’m over half finished as of this video. For this video alone (number SEVEN), I captured 5,422 frames. Each of these frames was taken between 1 and 10 seconds apart. It varies due to the nature of stop motion and the complexities of drawing with one hand and capturing frames with the other hand. I’ll have a rough estimate by the time I post the final time-lapse project video. Subscribe to my channel and you’ll get it delivered right to you from the friendly YouTube folks in your emails.

    SONG – Indigo Grove by JeffJag
    The sounds were created in the Moog Animoog and Korg iELECTRIBE apps on iOS, then mixed together in a multi-track audio editor. All composing, recording, sequencing, and mixing was done by myself and you can listen to all the soundtracks I’ve made for my videos on SoundCloud here: http://soundcloud.com/jeffjag/

    TIME-LAPSE vs. STOP MOTION
    Stop motion and Time-Lapse are used at different intervals during this video. The first two videos in the series were shot at a frame every 5-8 seconds. Later on, I decided to get out my remote shutter release and you can see me holding the button in my left hand as I draw with my right hand. Starting with video 10, I use a wireless shutter release.

    WHAT’S WITH THE LATEX GLOVE?
    I use a latex glove on my left hand while I draw to keep the oil of my hand from getting on the paper. I place a white sheet of paper under my right hand so I can shade without smudging what I’ve already done. Because I have to move my right hand while drawing, this keeps my hand free to move over areas I may have already drawn without smearing the work.

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