11 Years Factory wholesale 14″ rubber glove with cotton linning-rough finish supply for America

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Heavy duty rubber glove, made of 100% natural latex. 14″ length(36cm), rough finish, seamless, cotton lining, left/right hand, 330g/pair, 100pairs/case. Water proof, anti acid and alkali. Using for Isolater, dry box, blast cabinet, glove box, etc.


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We always stick to the principle "Quality First, Prestige Supreme". We are fully committed to providing our clients with competitively priced quality products, prompt delivery and professional service 11 Years Factory wholesale 14″ rubber glove with cotton linning-rough finish supply for America, We welcome new and old customers from all walks of life to contact us for future business relationships and mutual success!


Heavy duty rubber glove, made of 100% natural latex.

14″ length(36cm), rough finish, seamless, cotton lining, left/right hand, 330g/pair, 100pairs/case.

Water proof, anti acid and alkali. Using for Isolater, dry box, blast cabinet, glove box, etc.

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  • the ” how to get rid of rust on weight plates experiment ” VIDEO !
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    products used was sandpaper, metal pot cleaner, dish washing gloves, krud kutter: must for rust 32oz, and spray paint.

    day 1: 5 hours of krud kutter, day 2: 5 hours of krud kutter. final conclusion? watch the video :D

    final thoughts and suggestions: overall, krud kutter might be a great product, i know for sure it works for other type of rusts and metals. i am not trying to bash on their product or anything, i am just showing what i’ve experimented through and its conclusion. maybe, i used the product wrong or maybe i applied it for too long. thus, dont get the conclusion on your head that this krud kutter is unaffected on rust. my suggestion to you if you’re thinking of getting used rusted weight plates is that if you are willing to take the time to clean them then get them. if you ask me if i would do it all over again, i would simply say, no! first, the time, its too time consuming, i really think opportunity cost will apply here and you will be better of spending a little extra on clean plates rather than wasting lots of time cleaning them. 2nd, the damages and other products i had to dish out is costly, in this experiment, i ruined the sink tub, few clothing and wasted and bought, paper towels, cleaning products. overall, the cost will come near the extra dough for newer plates. finally, the baneful and God knows what chemicals i had to inhale while trying to get them usable. i had the house smelling like spray paint and rotten eggs for 3 days since I had to clean “16 plates.” all in all, i do kinda regret getting these plates, however, after i’ve spend hours getting them right, it came out pretty pretty good ! :D

    thanks for reading this, and thanks for watching, if u haven’t then Watch ! :D
    sub, comment, like, ! ! !



    Be safe! One viewer mentioned the importance of eye protection, I feel like an idiot for forgetting this. Don’t take any chances, please USE PROTECTIVE EYEWEAR!

    Things you’ll need:
    -rubber gloves
    -eye protection
    -well ventilated area
    -Radio Shack PCB Etchant Solution ($12-15)
    -glass jar and lid
    -piece of string or cord (to suspend the knife)
    -nail polish
    -nail polish remover
    -600+ grit sandpaper
    -paper towels
    -a safe working surface (newspaper, cardboard, etc.)

    In this video I demonstrate how to acid etch a knife blade. It’s a simple and easy way for you to add your own creative customization to your knife. This is my first time attempting this project, it was successful, so I am sharing the process. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK. I am leaving a few important tips below, but know that you can screw up your knife. That’s why I did it on a $18 knife this time. Besides that, have fun!

    ***Important tips***

    If you are etching a folding knife…
    1. Make SURE to coat (with nail polish) in and all around the pivot hole! If any of that surface is etched, it will affect the action of the knife, and probably ruin it.
    2. Make sure to coat the locking surfaces, where the liner or frame lock touches the blade, same goes for a back lock, whatever kind of lock. If you’re unsure, just coat it!

    Coat the cutting edge WELL!

    Notes about the video: I sped up a lot of it because I didn’t necessarily want to cut out the parts I did the work, yet I didn’t want the video to end up 30 minutes long! If you have any questions at all, ask in the comments, I’ll get back to you. Hope this helps, thanks for watching!

    Dispose of your etchant solution safely. Either neutralize it completely, or contact your local waste management office and ask what to do with it. Don’t risk the environmental damage and possible damage to your pipe.

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