2016 Good Quality Isolater rubber sleeve in Gabon

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This Workbrutes PVC overshoe has 46 % a lot more materials in its outsole than the closest slush molded competitor.
Produced with a revolutionary PVC compound that stays supple in the coldest weather conditions.
Thicker tread has further cleats with sharper edges for a lot more traction.
Injection molded, seamless building for one hundred% watertight defense.
Important interior entry points are specially textured to let overshoes to quickly slip on and off above rubber sole shoes.
Injection molding places much less materials in the higher getting rid of unnecessary weight for minimized leg fatigue.
For lengthier life a lot more materials is included to the sole at the finest have on points: the heel, toe and cleats.
Proposition sixty five WARNING: This merchandise incorporates chemical substances recognized to the Condition of California to result in most cancers and start flaws or other reproductive harm.
Measurements:

Bodyweight: 12.9 oz

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This video from Sears PartsDirect shows how to replace a broken clutch assembly in a direct-drive washer. The clutch releases the brake in the drive system to allow the basket to spin when the washer is in spin mode. The clutch band creates friction between the clutch hub and the clutch lining, causing the entire clutch assembly to rotate and release the brake. If the clutch lining is worn out, the clutch assembly will not rotate properly to release the brake. If the washer spins when the washer basket is empty but not when it’s full, check the clutch assembly. If it’s begining to turn blue, it will likely need to be replaced. This repair will work for direct-drive washers made by Kenmore, Whirlpool and Maytag.

Visit us at http://www.searspartsdirect.com?sid=soc:youtube:how-to-replace-a-direct-drive-washer-clutch-assembly

Or call 1-800-437-1673 to speak with a parts specialist.

The video includes these parts. Look up your model to make sure you get the right parts for your washer.
Clutch assembly

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/285785/0026/110.html?sid=soc:youtube:direct-part-link

Find parts for your washer at:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/product-types/Washer-Parts?sid=soc:youtube:card-washer-part

Or click here to schedule an appointment with a repair technician. https://www.searshomeservices.com/repair#showall

Transcript:
Unplug the power cord from the wall outlet. Turn off the water supply valves for the washer. Open the washer lid and pry the cap from the top of the agitator. Remove the 7/16″ bolt and washer that secure the agitator to the agitator drive shaft. Grip the bottom of the agitator and pull the entire agitator assembly up and out of the washer. Pull the drain hose out of the standpipe behind the washer. Move the washer away from the wall so you can reach the fill hoses. Mark which fill hose goes to the hot connector and which goes to the cold. Using channel-lock pliers, carefully loosen and remove both fill hoses. Expect some water to pour out. Tip: Wipe up water spills with a towel to prevent slipping. Carefully tip the washer backwards to access the drive components at the bottom of the washer. Use a slot screwdriver to release the metal mounting clips that secure the drain pump to the front of the drive motor. Pull the drain pump forward and release it from the drive motor shaft, leave the hoses connected to the drain pump. Unplug the wire harness from the drive motor. Detach the wires from the drive motor capacitor. Release the drive motor wire harness from the plastic retainer clip on the bottom of the transmission housing. Remove the bolts that secure the transmission to the base of the washer. Carefully pull the transmission (with drive motor attached) straight out of the bottom of the washer. Set the transmission and drive motor assembly upright to service the clutch assembly. Pull the thrust washer off of the transmission shaft. Using needle-nosed pliers, pull the clutch support ring off of the top of the clutch assembly. Using a slot screwdriver, pry the clutch retainer ring off of the top of the clutch assembly. Slide the clutch assembly up and off the transmission shaft. Pry the C-clip off of the brake cam. Pull the brake cam off of the base of the washer. Position the new brake cam on the base of the washer and reinstall the C-clip. Insert the isolator ring into the new clutch housing. Slide the new clutch housing onto the transmission shaft. Install the retainer ring on the top of the new clutch housing. Reinstall the support ring on the top of the new clutch housing. Reinstall the thrust washer on top of the new clutch housing. Carefully slide the transmission and motor assembly back into the base of the washer. Adjust the alignment of the clutch as necessary so that the transmission is flush with the base of the washer and the mounting holes are lined up. Reinstall the mounting bolts in the transmission. Reconnect the wire harness plug on the drive motor. Reattach the wires to the drive motor capacitor. Reinstall the wire harness in the plastic retainer clip at the bottom of the transmission. Reposition the drain pump on the drive motor shaft and secure the drain pump with the retainer clips. Carefully tilt the washer back to the upright position. Connect the drain hoses and properly tighten the connections using channel-lock pliers. Slide the agitator onto the agitator drive shaft. Insert the agitator bolt and the washer. Tighten the agitator bolt firmly. Snap the agitator cap onto the top of the agitator assembly. Put the drain hose back in place, and turn on the water supply valves. Tighten the connection if you find a slight leak. Plug the washer into the electrical outlet. Return the washer to its original location.