China Top 10 32″ Large cuff rubber glove Istanbul Manufacturer
Short Description:
Heavy duty rubber glove, made of 100% natural latex. 32″ length(82cm), smooth finish, seamless, no cotton lining, left/right hand, cuff perimeter:75cm, 800g/pair, 50pairs/case.
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We stick to our enterprise spirit of "Quality, Efficiency, Innovation and Integrity". We aim to create more value for our customers with our rich resources, advanced machinery, experienced workers and excellent services China Top 10 32″ Large cuff rubber glove Istanbul Manufacturer, We warmly welcome customers from all over the world for any kind of cooperation with us to build a mutual benefit future. We are devoting ourselves wholeheartedly to offer customers the best service.
Heavy duty rubber glove, made of 100% natural latex. 32″ length(82cm), smooth finish, seamless, no cotton lining, left/right hand, cuff perimeter:75cm, 800g/pair, 50pairs/case.
FAQ Content
The insides of your rubber gloves are sweaty and got dirt in them, this is a great way to make then blean and dry for a quick reuse.
Also, you can see how I turn them inside out quickly. Many people have a difficult time turning their gloves inside out to dry or when one of the fingers has been stuck inside out.
Here is how to turn them the right way round without blowing into them, which could be bad if they previously had chemicals or even raw chicken on them.
Naturally, I got this from my mother, the nurse.
Hi, It’s Sprig Barton
I’m going to show you how to clean out the inside of your rubber
gloves if you get them stinky or sweaty
or dirty.
Pretend right, I’ve got these gloves on
and they are all dirty on the inside
and I can feel how horrible they are
I’ve got all this aaaah
Say, I’ve even worn them in the garden and Ive got dirt inside.
The first thing you do is get this side of the gloves clean.
you can use dish soap or hand soap or whatever you like
just clean them really well.
as if you were cleaning your own hands
rinse them off well with pretty hot water.
Because that kills more germs and dirt and grease
OK
and then because you don’t know if you are
drying your hands or a dish
you can use either the hand towel or the dish towel.
right.
ok.
Now the outside is clean!
great right!
So the inside is filthy dirty and stinky,
turn them inside out
I’m going to wash my hands
Remember, your hands have to be dry and clean
put them on again inside out
and
I’ve got them on inside out
Ive got some more soap
and soap them up inside out
That’s getting them clean,
Go over to the sink,
rinse them really well,
dry them off.
ooooooh
nice and clean
nice and dry
So they are clean and dry again
am I in focus…
So they are clean and dry again
on the inside
you just have to
take them off
and fix them.
and that’s all there is to cleaning
the inside and outside of
your stinky sweaty rubber gloves.
Thanks for watching me clean my gloves
Please click to watch another one or to subscribe.
This video from Sears PartsDirect shows how to replace a broken clutch assembly in a direct-drive washer. The clutch releases the brake in the drive system to allow the basket to spin when the washer is in spin mode. The clutch band creates friction between the clutch hub and the clutch lining, causing the entire clutch assembly to rotate and release the brake. If the clutch lining is worn out, the clutch assembly will not rotate properly to release the brake. If the washer spins when the washer basket is empty but not when it’s full, check the clutch assembly. If it’s begining to turn blue, it will likely need to be replaced. This repair will work for direct-drive washers made by Kenmore, Whirlpool and Maytag.
Visit us at http://www.searspartsdirect.com?sid=soc:youtube:how-to-replace-a-direct-drive-washer-clutch-assembly
Or call 1-800-437-1673 to speak with a parts specialist.
The video includes these parts. Look up your model to make sure you get the right parts for your washer.
Clutch assembly
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/285785/0026/110.html?sid=soc:youtube:direct-part-link
Find parts for your washer at:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/product-types/Washer-Parts?sid=soc:youtube:card-washer-part
Or click here to schedule an appointment with a repair technician. https://www.searshomeservices.com/repair#showall
Transcript:
Unplug the power cord from the wall outlet. Turn off the water supply valves for the washer. Open the washer lid and pry the cap from the top of the agitator. Remove the 7/16″ bolt and washer that secure the agitator to the agitator drive shaft. Grip the bottom of the agitator and pull the entire agitator assembly up and out of the washer. Pull the drain hose out of the standpipe behind the washer. Move the washer away from the wall so you can reach the fill hoses. Mark which fill hose goes to the hot connector and which goes to the cold. Using channel-lock pliers, carefully loosen and remove both fill hoses. Expect some water to pour out. Tip: Wipe up water spills with a towel to prevent slipping. Carefully tip the washer backwards to access the drive components at the bottom of the washer. Use a slot screwdriver to release the metal mounting clips that secure the drain pump to the front of the drive motor. Pull the drain pump forward and release it from the drive motor shaft, leave the hoses connected to the drain pump. Unplug the wire harness from the drive motor. Detach the wires from the drive motor capacitor. Release the drive motor wire harness from the plastic retainer clip on the bottom of the transmission housing. Remove the bolts that secure the transmission to the base of the washer. Carefully pull the transmission (with drive motor attached) straight out of the bottom of the washer. Set the transmission and drive motor assembly upright to service the clutch assembly. Pull the thrust washer off of the transmission shaft. Using needle-nosed pliers, pull the clutch support ring off of the top of the clutch assembly. Using a slot screwdriver, pry the clutch retainer ring off of the top of the clutch assembly. Slide the clutch assembly up and off the transmission shaft. Pry the C-clip off of the brake cam. Pull the brake cam off of the base of the washer. Position the new brake cam on the base of the washer and reinstall the C-clip. Insert the isolator ring into the new clutch housing. Slide the new clutch housing onto the transmission shaft. Install the retainer ring on the top of the new clutch housing. Reinstall the support ring on the top of the new clutch housing. Reinstall the thrust washer on top of the new clutch housing. Carefully slide the transmission and motor assembly back into the base of the washer. Adjust the alignment of the clutch as necessary so that the transmission is flush with the base of the washer and the mounting holes are lined up. Reinstall the mounting bolts in the transmission. Reconnect the wire harness plug on the drive motor. Reattach the wires to the drive motor capacitor. Reinstall the wire harness in the plastic retainer clip at the bottom of the transmission. Reposition the drain pump on the drive motor shaft and secure the drain pump with the retainer clips. Carefully tilt the washer back to the upright position. Connect the drain hoses and properly tighten the connections using channel-lock pliers. Slide the agitator onto the agitator drive shaft. Insert the agitator bolt and the washer. Tighten the agitator bolt firmly. Snap the agitator cap onto the top of the agitator assembly. Put the drain hose back in place, and turn on the water supply valves. Tighten the connection if you find a slight leak. Plug the washer into the electrical outlet. Return the washer to its original location.





