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Learn how to build an outdoor patio bar with an acid stained concrete top. In part 1 Pete will show you how to build a concrete bar top mold, pour concrete, create a trowel finish, and seal a concrete bar top. For the complete and free bar plans go to

For more info, project photos, and downloadable plans check out:

http://www.diypete.com/patiotable

Download Plans: https://gumroad.com/l/patiobar

*Note that these are affiliate links, meaning that when you buy something that is recommended below, it helps support the Channel. Thanks in advance!

*Tools Needed
Power Drill – http://amzn.to/1OxMfnt
Orbital Sander – http://amzn.to/1VUVNYy
Circular Saw – http://amzn.to/1OxNa7k
Table Saw (optional) – http://amzn.to/1X7Eje5
12″ Miter Saw (optional) – http://amzn.to/1VUVo8s
Jig Saw – http://amzn.to/1ZGFCTf
Bolt Cutter – http://amzn.to/1OxNcfe
Concrete Trowel – http://amzn.to/1LwkIAe

Measure and then cut the Melamine wood to size using a circular saw. Use a jig saw if needed to cut hard to reach areas. Cut the sidewalls for the concrete bar mold using a table saw or circular saw. I cut mine to 3 3/4 inches wide. This gave me a nice bold looking concrete top that was a total of 3 inches thick. The extra 3/4 of an inch is to compensate for the base of the mold.

Layout the sidewalls of the mold to make sure everything fits correctly. Attach the sidewalls to the base using 1 1/2 inch drywall screws. Pre-drill prior to inserting the screw.

Use a knife to cut 1 1/2 inch thick foam for the knockout in your mold. It will be slightly smaller than the mold. There is a 1 inch channel around the entire perimeter between the foam and the sidewalls. This will allow concrete to form around the foam and to create a lip. Your concrete counter will look like it is 3 inches thick throughout. However, it will only be 1 1/2 inches thick where the foam is placed. Thus, you’ll reduce the weight of the countertop dramatically and will not have to purchase as much concrete.

The foam I used had a metallic backing. Please note that any foam will work. I bought smaller project sized pieces and then used packing tape to piece them together. I also sealed all the edges of the foam with clear packing tape so the foam would release from the concrete easily.

Cut re-enforcement for the concrete down to size. It typically comes in 4×8 sheets at Home Depot. Seal the joints in your mold with 100% silicon caulk. Use silicon to adhere the foam to the base of the mold as well. Let the silicon dry before adding the concrete.

Mix up your concrete 1 bag at a time. I’d recommend using Quikrete Counter Top mix. If you can’t find countertop mix, Quikrete 5000 will work. The countertop mix consists of finer aggregate and is much easier to create a perfect hard trowel finish with. Mix the concrete with a hoe or a shovel. Add water until it is about a cookie dough type consistency.

Add the concrete to the mold. Use a shovel, bucket, or your hands to pack it into the counter top mold. Use your hands and fingers to pack the concrete into all areas of the mold. Make sure to wear rubber gloves whenever handling concrete. Fill the mold half full with concrete. Then place the re-enforcement in the concrete. Make sure it is as flat as possible. Then continue adding concrete until the mold is full.

Screed the concrete using a 2×4. Simply move the 2×4 in a saw-like motion back and forth. This will level out the concrete. Fill in low spots as needed and screed from one side to another until the concrete in the mold is as level as possible. Use a trowel to smooth the concrete for the first time. If you have a float, you can use it to help bring more “cream” to the surface which helps make the hard troweling process a bit easier.

This is one of the most important steps. I like to compare it to watching the grill so you get a perfect medium rare steak for dinner. Except with this, it takes a lot longer and you don’t get to eat a steak. Anyhow, let the concrete firm up for a few hours and check it every half hour because curing time will depend on temperature, humidity, the amount of water used, and the concrete mix. Use a finger to test the firmness. If it leaves a small dimple and you don’t get any water or concrete on your finger it is ready to remove the sidewalls and trowel.

Slowly remove the sidewalls. If the concrete sags make sure to put the sidewalls back on and to wait longer. Once the sidewalls are off you can smooth out the edges and fill any bugholes with extra concrete…
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Pete Sveen
1627 W Main Street Suite 182
Bozeman, Montana 59715

Be cautious when holding key components that have sensitive contact areas. If you want to be extra cautious you can use tech grade ESD gloves. I recommend ESD Nitrile gloves that have microtextured fingertips that provide excellent grip on all surfaces. 100% nitrile gloves contain no natural rubber or silicone and meet stringent requirements for particles and extractables. In regards to handling try not to directly handle PCB or contact points. For a graphics card try to handle it from the corners or the heatsink. For a motherboard use the corners / sides. If you do not want to use full gloves you can also consider finger ESD cods. If you use your bare hands just have common sense and keep in mind when the contacts are.

I mistakenly refer to the measurement on the gloves thickness as millimeters, when in fact it is milli-inches. MIL stands for milli-inches and MM stands for millimeters. My bad. Though, that doesn’t change anything I say as inaccurate regarding smaller number = thinner glove.

ESD Nitrile Gloves:

http://amzn.to/2rbxvVN

If you’re trying to prevent fingerprints, wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water, paying particular attention to scrubbing the pads on your fingers. Dry them off well. Then handle the components by the edges, as I demonstrate in all of my computer building videos. If you happen to see a fingerprint, stop. Go wash your hands again! This is a much better plan than using any kind of glove.

Remember, handle all parts by the edges and there is no place for fingerprints to be left behind! I demonstrate this in every single computer build video I’ve ever done.

If you’re trying to prevent cuts, these gloves are all too thin to provide any protection from that. Work slower and more carefully to avoid injury. Or put on band-aids prematurely in areas of your hands that you feel you are most prone to be cut.

Video editing software used to create this video:
Cyberlink PowerDirector 15 Ultimate:

https://www.cyberlink.com/products/powerdirector-ultra/

Screen captures by Camtasia Studio 9:

https://www.techsmith.com/camtasia.html

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http://www.CareyHolzman.com