Chinese Professional 14″ rubber glove with cotton linning-rough finish in Netherlands

FAQ Content

شرکت مشاورین پوششهای صنعتی کسری در راستای کاهش خطرات و صدمات ناشی از برق گرفتگی و با بهره گیری از تکنولوژی روز اروپا موفق به تولید سفارشی کفپوش عایق برق – دارای گزارش آزمون از آزمایشگاه فشارقوی پژوهشگاه نیرو و مرکز پژوهش متالوژی رازی و دانشگاه صنعت آب و برق وزارت نیرو(شهید عباسپور) شده است.
کفپوش عایق برق طبقه خاصی از کفپوش های پلیمری عایق با خواص ضد الکتریکی عالی میباشد که برای استفاده در مقابل تابلوهای برق، پستهای برق و ایستگاههای فشار قوی کاربرد دارد. کفپوش عایق برق اپراتورها یا کارکنان واحد نگهداری و تعمیرات تجهیزات الکتریکی را در برابر برق گرفتگی و شوک های الکتریکی احتمالی محافظت مینماید و باید در مکانهایی که احتمال خطرات جانی و ایمنی وجود دارد مورد استفاده قرار گیرد.

ثابت ماندن خواص عایقی لاستیک با طرز ترکیب آن ( کامپاندینگ ) مرتبط می باشد و هر گونه ماده افزودنی (رنگ ها و فیلر ها ، مواد محافظ و پروسه پخت ) در میزان مقاومت الکتریکی
لاستیک تاثیر گذار خواهد بود.

آدرس : تهران ـ خيابان شريعتی ـ پایین تر از دوراهی قلهک
انتهای کوچه مسعود- کوچه مطهری-پلاک11
تلفاکس: 94-22635491 و 10-22630608

Kasra Company is one of the chief manufacturers and exporters of Electrical Insulating Mats in Middle East. As an eminent manufacturer, we provide electrical insulating mats according to IEC 61111 International Standard. Electrical insulating mats are used in front of switchboards or high voltage equipments to protect working personnel against deadly electrical shocks. We can supply the electrical insulating mats in the form of roll for both HV & LV applications in 1 m width and any length as per customer requirements.
Unique characteristics of our electrical insulating mat:
- Class 0 to Class 4, Maximum use voltage 36kV (A.C) 54Kv (D.C)
- Suitable physical and mechanical properties to withstand trolley movement, mobile electrical equipments and foot traffic
- Applicable for both AC & DC electrical insulation
- Water and moisture resistance
- Appropriate anti-skid properties
- Excellent resistant against tearing and punching
- Fire retardant, self-extinguishing properties
- Exhibit good elongation & tensile strength properties
- Manufactured without any metallic derivatives or carbon additives
- Applicable for all fields of generation, transferring, distribution and consumption of electricity
- Available in blue, gray, green, orange and red colors

Office address : No. 11, Motahari Alley, Masoud Alley, Shariati Ave (Gholhak), Tehran, Iran.

Telefax: (+98) 021-26400037-9
(+98) 021-26423949

(+98) 021-22263329

Email: info@kasracompany.com

Electrical insulating matting in plane form shall be tested as received, without modification. In the case of electrical insulating matting in rolls, having a width equal to or larger than
1 000 mm, the minimum size of each test piece shall be 1 000 mm × 1 000 mm. For rolls having a width less than 1 000 mm, the test piece shall have the length equal to the width.
The electrical insulating matting or test piece shall be given a voltage test as specified in Table 4 using electrodes as specified in 5.6.2.2. The voltage shall be initially applied at a low
value and gradually increased at a constant rate-of-rise of approximately 1 000 V/s until the specified test voltage level is reached. The test period shall be considered to start at the
instant the specified voltage is reached.The test shall be considered as passed if the specified test voltage is reached and maintained for 3 min without the occurrence of disruptive discharge or other electrical failure. For conformity testing, the matting does not have to be submitted to a conditioning for moisture absorption. The time duration of the proof test, shall be 1 min.
In case of matting in a roll, an alternative test for testing the entire length of each roll is under consideration (for example, a test set up made of a roller to hold the roll to be tested, a feed
table at an appropriate speed with rollers energized at an appropriate test voltage, a take-up support table and take-up rollers).

Learn how to build an outdoor patio bar with an acid stained concrete top. In part 1 Pete will show you how to build a concrete bar top mold, pour concrete, create a trowel finish, and seal a concrete bar top. For the complete and free bar plans go to

For more info, project photos, and downloadable plans check out:

http://www.diypete.com/patiotable

Download Plans: https://gumroad.com/l/patiobar

*Note that these are affiliate links, meaning that when you buy something that is recommended below, it helps support the Channel. Thanks in advance!

*Tools Needed
Power Drill – http://amzn.to/1OxMfnt
Orbital Sander – http://amzn.to/1VUVNYy
Circular Saw – http://amzn.to/1OxNa7k
Table Saw (optional) – http://amzn.to/1X7Eje5
12″ Miter Saw (optional) – http://amzn.to/1VUVo8s
Jig Saw – http://amzn.to/1ZGFCTf
Bolt Cutter – http://amzn.to/1OxNcfe
Concrete Trowel – http://amzn.to/1LwkIAe

Measure and then cut the Melamine wood to size using a circular saw. Use a jig saw if needed to cut hard to reach areas. Cut the sidewalls for the concrete bar mold using a table saw or circular saw. I cut mine to 3 3/4 inches wide. This gave me a nice bold looking concrete top that was a total of 3 inches thick. The extra 3/4 of an inch is to compensate for the base of the mold.

Layout the sidewalls of the mold to make sure everything fits correctly. Attach the sidewalls to the base using 1 1/2 inch drywall screws. Pre-drill prior to inserting the screw.

Use a knife to cut 1 1/2 inch thick foam for the knockout in your mold. It will be slightly smaller than the mold. There is a 1 inch channel around the entire perimeter between the foam and the sidewalls. This will allow concrete to form around the foam and to create a lip. Your concrete counter will look like it is 3 inches thick throughout. However, it will only be 1 1/2 inches thick where the foam is placed. Thus, you’ll reduce the weight of the countertop dramatically and will not have to purchase as much concrete.

The foam I used had a metallic backing. Please note that any foam will work. I bought smaller project sized pieces and then used packing tape to piece them together. I also sealed all the edges of the foam with clear packing tape so the foam would release from the concrete easily.

Cut re-enforcement for the concrete down to size. It typically comes in 4×8 sheets at Home Depot. Seal the joints in your mold with 100% silicon caulk. Use silicon to adhere the foam to the base of the mold as well. Let the silicon dry before adding the concrete.

Mix up your concrete 1 bag at a time. I’d recommend using Quikrete Counter Top mix. If you can’t find countertop mix, Quikrete 5000 will work. The countertop mix consists of finer aggregate and is much easier to create a perfect hard trowel finish with. Mix the concrete with a hoe or a shovel. Add water until it is about a cookie dough type consistency.

Add the concrete to the mold. Use a shovel, bucket, or your hands to pack it into the counter top mold. Use your hands and fingers to pack the concrete into all areas of the mold. Make sure to wear rubber gloves whenever handling concrete. Fill the mold half full with concrete. Then place the re-enforcement in the concrete. Make sure it is as flat as possible. Then continue adding concrete until the mold is full.

Screed the concrete using a 2×4. Simply move the 2×4 in a saw-like motion back and forth. This will level out the concrete. Fill in low spots as needed and screed from one side to another until the concrete in the mold is as level as possible. Use a trowel to smooth the concrete for the first time. If you have a float, you can use it to help bring more “cream” to the surface which helps make the hard troweling process a bit easier.

This is one of the most important steps. I like to compare it to watching the grill so you get a perfect medium rare steak for dinner. Except with this, it takes a lot longer and you don’t get to eat a steak. Anyhow, let the concrete firm up for a few hours and check it every half hour because curing time will depend on temperature, humidity, the amount of water used, and the concrete mix. Use a finger to test the firmness. If it leaves a small dimple and you don’t get any water or concrete on your finger it is ready to remove the sidewalls and trowel.

Slowly remove the sidewalls. If the concrete sags make sure to put the sidewalls back on and to wait longer. Once the sidewalls are off you can smooth out the edges and fill any bugholes with extra concrete…
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Pete Sveen
1627 W Main Street Suite 182
Bozeman, Montana 59715