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The essential part of completing the perfect spiderman suit replica is the Face Shell Set. Here’s an instructional video on how to assemble it.

Check out this video on how the eyes are inserted in the finished spiderman mask:

SpideyPlanet youtube channel:

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The spiderman face shell mask and eye frames are 3D printed using the SLS technique. Quality of the plastic is fantastic, it’s strong yet slightly flexible. The eye frames are 3D printed in the same material as the face shell mask.
For a perfect finish the eye frames are painted by surfacer paint, polished thoroughly with 3 different grits of sand paper to get the surface super smooth, then airbrushed with a metallic black paint. The result is beautifully smooth eye frames with perfect light reflection and metallic effect. It takes time but it’s totally worth the effort since the eyes are such an important part of the final impression of the spiderman costume.
The convex lenses are hand-made. They don’t only give a light reflection to the eyes, they also deepen the eye lenses by 2 millimeter, which gives a feel that the eyes are actually ‘inside’ the spider-man mask. The deeper eyes can only be achieved because the eye frames actually sink inside eye holes of the face shell. To increase the deep eyes effect, the mesh is airbrushed with a shadow edge. Something they did not do for the first spider-man movie in 2002, yet was added to the design for the second spiderman movie in 2004.
The spider man costume face shell set is completed with a pair of anti-fog lenses, that prevent the convex lenses from fogging up.

The raw 3D printed material can be damaging to the fabric of the spider-man costume mask. Therefore it’s important to sand the face shell thoroughly. Don’t worry about the face shell losing some of its black color. Test with a piece of fabric on the spiderman shell if the surface is smooth enough. Draw a dot on each magnet, all on the same pole side, to make sure the magnets will attract and not bounce. Any type of super-glue can be used for glueing down the magnets. Glue the magnets into the spiderman face shell with the black dot outwards. Glue the magnets into the spiderman eye frames with the black dot inwards.

More about me and the spider-man suit I made can be found here:

http://www.Facebook.com/SpideyPlanet

http://www.YouTube.com/SpideyPlanet

http://www.SpideyPlanet.com

DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS BELOW:
A quick overview and demo of how to paint a Kawasaki KLR650 with Khaki (or Sand) colored Kyrlon Fusion spray paint. I also painted the tank with Rustoleum Truck Bed Liner. See below for more details.

The best part of painting a KLR 650 is that you just don’t have to take yourself too seriously. Honestly, if you ride it like you should, it should be getting dings, scratches, scrapes, and buffs. That’s what’s nice about spray paint… if you want it to look fresh and clean again, all you need to do is bit of masking and spray away.

Krylon Fusion is incredibly tough stuff. I’ve been super impressed with how it’s held up on my bike. The truck bed liner is also great, but it is difficult to clean/wipe off when it’s dirty.

Thanks to @sonyponyable for requesting the video. I’ve been meaning to get to this for a long time, so thanks for the request.

If you want to do a seriously “professional” job, you’ll want to remove the plastics and the tank before you spray. Make sure to mask off any important bits (like the fuel petcock). I used some rougher (120) grit 3M automotive sandpaper to “buff” out any scratches that were on the stock plastics. After that, I used a fine grit (1000) to get it ready for the paint. Once the plastics and tank was sanded, I cleaned it off with water and then baby wipes so I wasn’t painting over plastic/enamel dust.

On the tank, I really sanded it until the stickers looked dull, but they were by no means gone. Three coats of bed liner and the sticker was barely noticeable. Make sure not to let the bed liner drip, as it will stay that way.

The fork shoes were painted using Rustoleum bumper paint. Worked like a charm… I didn’t want to take those off to paint so I just sprayed lightly and masked around them like a madman.

I gave it three solid coats, waiting about 30 minutes between coats. I did let it “cure” for about a week (while I was fixing other things on the bike) . After that, it was pretty darn scratch resistant, as you can see in the film.

Again, it’s nice to be able to touch up your bike with a bit of masking and a few blasts with a spray can.

For the initial job, use lots of paint, lots of newspaper and masking tape, and don’t take yourself too seriously. Trust me, that Krylon is pretty forgiving.

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