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FAQ Content

How to make a simple backyard foundry for less than $20, for melting pop cans, and casting aluminum.

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WARNING:

Charcoal foundries can reach temperatures in excess of 1,000ºC, which is well above the melting point of hobbyists. This project should only be attempted with adequate knowledge and training, proper protective safety gear, and in a fire resistant area with adequate ventilation. The sparks flying from the foundry can ignite fires, and the fumes from burning dross can be toxic. Use caution and common sense. Use of this video content is at your own risk.

Music By: Scott & Brendo (“Feel It” – Instrumental) http://bit.ly/ScottBrendoiTunes

Project Inspired By:

This foundry is an original design, which comes after months of experimenting, and over 10 different prototypes. The functionality is founded on ideas I collected while searching the internet for different furnace designs.

Project History & More Info:

For this project I experimented with 10 different prototypes, to develop a reusable backyard foundry that melts aluminum soda cans easily and safely. I tested different refractory recipes, different containers, different setting for blowing air, and different types of makeshift crucibles.

I tried various ratios of portland cement, sand, perlite, plaster of paris, water, and even kitty litter. For containers, I experimented with clay pots, plastic buckets, no container, cinderblocks, and a galvanized steel pail.

I ended up favoring the galvanized steel pail, and a mix of 50% plaster of paris, and 50% play sand, by volume, which was inspired by a video by NightHawkInLight “How to Make a Soup Can Forge” http://bit.ly/IBSoupCanForge

Depending on where you get, or find, your materials the cost can range anywhere from $5-$25 per unit. With the materials I used, I was able to make 2 units for under $40 ($20 each). Even on the high end, this is probably one of the cheapest, reliable, backyard foundries that can be made.

I used mine to melt soda cans, and extract the aluminum for future metal casting projects. All the soda cans came from a local recycling depot. I bought back 30 lbs from the depot to avoid having to drink gallons and gallons of soda. I stored the ingots in various forms, which you can see in the video”Melting Cans With The Mini Metal Foundry” https://goo.gl/pTP1uG
The technique for making the sword in that video, and the gun in this video is called “Lost Foam Casting” and will be demonstrated in a future project video.

CLEARCOAT APPLICATION
Applying your Clear Top Coat

What You Need:

* Clearcoat (Parts A & B)
* 3/8 Nap Roller & Squeegee
* Threaded Broom handle
* Paint Brush
* Painters Tape
* Spike Shoes
* Latex Protective Gloves
* Paint Stick or Jiffy Mixer

In this application video, you will be learning how to apply both the waterborne clear coat epoxy and the urethane topcoat.

First is the waterborne epoxy clear coat. It is a two component, eco friendly and easy to use thin-mil sealer for your epoxy floor system. This clear coat can be used on your garage floor or in your basement. It’s non-flammable, high gloss, chemical resistant and has no odor. This clear coat is not UV resistant and should not be used outdoors. Directly in the sun, the clear coat will discolor and turn yellow.

Second is the Urethane Clear coat. It is a clear two component polyurethane floor sealer designed for maximum chemical resistance, abrasion resistance and uv-resistance. It is a flammable liquid and should only be used in a well-ventilated area, NEVER should it be used in a basement or confined space. It works great as a long lasting clearcoat for garages, auto service centers and exterior applications such as porches or sidewalks.

The importance of a clear coat is to not only provide chemical and abrasion resistance but also to protect your color chips. Without a clear top coat, your floor will be harder to clean and the chips will become dirty, faded and will wear down over time.

To begin, slowly add the clear coat Part B to the clear coat Part A. Please mix each clear coat according to the mix ratios provided in the individual product instructions. After the two parts are combined; mix well with slow speed mixing equipment such as a jiffy mixer or paint stick until the material is thoroughly mixed and streak free. Improper mixing may result in product failure.

If you are using the waterborne clear coat, its mixed and applied appearance will be milky white and may even look like white paint but it will dry Crystal Clear.

If you are using the urethane clear coat, its mixed and applied appearance will be clear and will dry crystal clear. Urethane is a flammable liquid and produces flammable vapor upon mixing. USE ONLY WITH ADEQUATE VENTILATION. Cross ventilation and using a disposable respirator is a good idea. Please extinguish any source of flame like pilot lights prior to application. Do not smoke around.

Allow the mixed material to stand 30 minutes for induction time. Always re-stir before use. Mixed material is usable for four to six hours.

After the material is thoroughly mixed, use a brush or small roller to cut in along the walls, expansion joints and hard to reach areas.

After you are finished cutting in, apply the clear coat from the container in thin ribbons on top of the basecoat in small sections at a time. Start painting in the corner furthest away from the exit of the room. The preferred and easiest method for applying the clear top coat is to use a serrated squeegee and spread the material out over the surface. If you chose not to use a squeegee; just a roller will suffice. After you have covered the surface area, use a 3/8 nap roller to back roll the clear coat to level out the coverage area. Use a pair of spike shoes or golf cleats to allow you to walk over the wet clear coat. This ensures that the coating has covered all the surface area sufficiently and keeps it from streaking. Please avoid rolling out the clear coat too thick for it can cause possible issues such as white patches or cloudiness.

When applying a topcoat, walk on previously applied chip/basecoat with clean shoes or socks only. Any dirt or debris tracked on to the chips or basecoat will be sealed in by application of clear topcoat. If you come to the end of your floor and you still have clear coat left over, do not use the mixed material to add thickness to the layer you just put down.

If you chose to topcoat this product, you must first be sure that all of the solvents and water have evaporated from the coating during the curing process. Usually you are able to recoat after 14 hours.

You can test this by pressing on the coating with your thumb to verify that no fingerprint impression is left. If no impression is created, then the recoat or topcoat can be started.

The clear coat dries to light foot traffic in 24 hours. You can move heavy items on it in 36-48 hours. Please wait 7 days for full cure before vehicle traffic.

Option Steps:

Surfaces coated with high-gloss epoxy or urethane may become slippery when wet. For additional slip resistance in areas of pedestrian traffic, use a Non-Skid Additive. While painting your Clearcoat; roll forward, lightly sprinkle non-skid grit; then back roll over it once again. Be sure not to apply non-skid in a high-concentration. Sprinkle at 1 can per 500+ square feet.