Fast delivery for 26″ Industrial rubber glove-Granule finish in Suriname

FAQ Content

Roberto is in this video. After a short presentation of the company, he explains how trilaminate drysuits are produced.

Enjoy it and please comment below.

“My name is Roberto Scerbo
I’m the owner and founder of Rofos.
I founded this Company 32 years ago.
We started with gloves socks and wetsuits to me and to colleagues and friends who were doing competitive spearfishing.
These 25 years of competitiveness obviously gave to me a depth knowledge of neoprene using it personally.
The passion pushed us over the years to expand the range and the quality of products, widening of course also the headquarters becoming a benchmark in the diving industry.
In 2010 we decided to face a new challenge developing our first trilaminate drysuit dedicated to technical diving.
The manufacturing of templates begins with the selection of the fabrics and cutting the jigs in various sizes.
The real production begins with the cutting of the fabric and reinforcements.
In the early years we used to cut by hand.
Nowdays we introduced an electric cutter to maximize the precision.
At this time we proceed with the application of the dry zipper and the neck seal, until the fabric is still lying on the table to ensure an optimal application.
The third stage involves the application of the pockets and reinforcements by sewing and the assembly of the various pieces.
Then we proceed with the application of wrists and boots The heat welding is the key step to ensure the watertight integrity of the drysuit, so, obviously, we dedicate close attention this step.
Every single suit is then tested in a tank to control the effective sealing of each single seam.
The spirit of the Company is to continue to grow creating more and more performing and reliable products.”

Video tutorial on how to diagnose and repair the blend door actuator on a Ford Ranger. The two main issues with a failing blend door actuator is when you adjust the interior temperature on the hvac control panel, you will either hear a clicking sound or the temperature will be stuck on either hot, cold, or won’t adjust the cabin temperature. If you catch the issue in the right time, then it is repairable and you don’t need to buy a replacement actuator. This particular vehicle I am working with is a 1998 Ford Ranger, but a similar procedure may also apply to Mazda B series models as well.

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-grease
-cloth
-contact cleaner
-blend door actuator
-gear replacement
-multimeter
-standard/flat screwdriver

Procedure:
-as mentioned above the two main issues is you will either hear a clicking sound in the dash when adjusting the temperature or the temperature can’t be adjusted
-it is located behind the glove box
-remove the contents of the glove box, then bend the sides in and pull down
-this will expose the main duct and the blend door actuator is either a white or black box, this will depend if it’s been replaced before or not and is located on the top
-remove the electrical connector, simply depress the tab and pull out
-the electrical connector can be both back probed using a multimeter when in place or disconnected to test the controller circuit
-wiring may vary between the years so check a wiring diagram specific to your vehicle
-the pinout diagram will say which pin location connects to what part of the circuit
-turn the ignition in the run position
-using a multimeter on the lowest DC voltage setting, check to ensure if there is power at the circuit, along with a sufficient ground
-now setting the multimeter to the lowest ohms setting, we will measure the resistance of the potentiometer in the hvac control panel
-values will vary depending on what your cabin temperature is set at
-if it fails any parts of the test, then there is an issue with the hvac control panel or the wiring
-we can simply remove the actuator and inspect if it’s functioning correctly
-to remove it, simply depress the two tabs on the front and use a standard screwdriver to pop it up
-use the assistance of a standard screwdriver to disconnect the actuator
-another issue is that the shaft can break, either on the unit or on the door within the duct
-if the door has broken within the duct, then the duct will need to be disassembled for replacement
-plug the actuator back into the electrical connector, turn the ignition in the run position and test
-rotate the air temperature control and watch to see if the shaft rotates
-it doesn’t have a large amount of movement and won’t move fast either
-using a smaller standard screwdriver, slowly pop the tabs around the outside
-try to hold it apart so it doesn’t clip closed again
-remove the cap and then everything will be exposed inside
-wipe off any old lubricant
-I used a paint marker just to align the gears to make it easier for reassembly
-then remove the gears and continue to clean off the old lubricant
-inspect gears for any damage
-the small gear driven by the motor, I have seen a replacement on Ebay if yours needs to be replaced and it’s much cheaper than buying a new replacement unit
-clean the potentiometer with electronic contact clean and a clean rag
-do not contaminate this area with any oil or grease and inspect for any damage
-ensure the contacts on the shaft gear which run against the potentiometer is cleaner and make sure they ride correctly on the swipe area
-apply lithium grease to the gears and shafts they ride on
-reassemble the gears, lining everything back up and ensure the case is snapped back together
-test to make sure it is working correctly
-for reinstalling the actuator back onto the duct, if you have moved it, then that’s not an issue
-connect the electrical connector, turn the ignition on and then slowly rotate temperature selector, eventually the actuator will fall into it’s slot, then snap the unit back into place
-test again
-push the glovebox back into place by pulling in the sides again

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