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How to prepare your car for polishing or LSP using Iron-X, Tar-X and detailing clay bar. Read the complete story: http://autoobsessed.com/detailing-guide-how-to-prepare-car-paint-for-polishing-or-nano-coating.html

After you wash your car, iron particles, tar and other deposits still remain embedded in the clear coat. Before you begin polishing your paint or before you apply a wax, sealant or nano coating LSP, remove these embedded contaminants and make the paint perfectly smooth.

Recommended products for decontaminating your vehicle’s finish:

CAR WASH and COATING REMOVAL:
Chemical Guys Citrus Wash+Gloss shampoo http://www.autoobsessed.com/shop/chemical-guys-citruswash-gloss-16oz-p-934.html
Migliore Citro Shampoo http://www.autoobsessed.com/shop/migliore-citro-shampoo-p-1317.html
Griot’s Garage Paint Prep removal spray http://www.autoobsessed.com/shop/griots-garage-paint-prep-35oz-11135-p-862.html

IRON and TAR REMOVAL:
CarPro Iron-X 500ml bottle http://www.autoobsessed.com/shop/carpro-iron-500ml-p-799.html
CarPro Iron-X 1 liter bottle http://www.autoobsessed.com/shop/carpro-iron-liter-p-1002.html
CarPro Tar-X http://www.autoobsessed.com/shop/carpro-tar-p-1289.html
CarPro Trix iron and tar remover http://www.autoobsessed.com/shop/carpro-trix-tar-and-iron-remover-p-1530.html
Plastic Spray Nozzle http://www.autoobsessed.com/shop/carpro-iron-sprayer-p-1718.html

CLAY LUBRICANT:
Sonus Glyde Detailing Clay Lubricant http://www.autoobsessed.com/shop/sonus-glyde-clay-lubricant-p-342.html
Chemical Guys Luber http://www.autoobsessed.com/shop/chemical-guys-luber-clayblock-p-519.html
Griot’s Garage Speed Shine http://www.autoobsessed.com/shop/griots-garage-speed-shine-35oz-11146-p-447.html
Swissvax Quick Finish http://www.autoobsessed.com/shop/swissvax-quick-finish-paintwork-quick-detailing-p-831.html
Four Star Clay Bar Lubricant http://www.autoobsessed.com/shop/four-star-clay-bar-lubricant-p-1459.html
Nanoskin Autoscrub Glide Lubricant http://www.autoobsessed.com/shop/nanoskin-glide-lubricant-p-1667.html

DETAILING CLAY:
Sonus SFX Ultra-Fine Detailing Clay (ultra-fine grade) http://www.autoobsessed.com/shop/sonus-sfx-ultra-fine-detailing-clay-p-601.html
Chemical Guys Light Clay Bar – Blue (ultra-fine grade) http://www.autoobsessed.com/shop/chemical-guys-clay-blue-light-p-582.html
Chemical Guys Surface Eraser Clay Bar (ultra-fine grade) http://www.autoobsessed.com/shop/chemical-guys-clay-gray-p-584.html
Chemical Guys Heavy Duty Clay Bar (medium grade) http://www.autoobsessed.com/shop/chemical-guys-clay-purple-p-583.html
Griot’s Garage Paint Cleaning Clay (fine grade) http://www.autoobsessed.com/shop/griots-garage-paint-cleaning-clay-11153-p-449.html
Swissvax Paint Rubber Clay Compound (ultra-fine grade) http://www.autoobsessed.com/shop/swissvax-paint-rubber-clay-p-827.html
Nanoskin Autoscrub Synthetic Clay 6″ Polishing Pad (fine grade) http://www.autoobsessed.com/shop/nanoskin-autoscrub-fine-p-1786.html
Nanoskin Autoscrub Speedy Prep Sponge (fine grade) http://www.autoobsessed.com/shop/nanoskin-autoscrub-speedy-prep-sponge-fine-grade-p-1843.html
Nanoskin Autoscrub Speedy Prep Sponge (medium grade) http://www.autoobsessed.com/shop/nanoskin-autoscrub-speedy-prep-sponge-medium-grade-p-1844.html

GLOVES:
Heavy Duty Nitrile Gloves (box of 100) http://www.autoobsessed.com/shop/gloves-nitrile-gloves-p-671.html

This video is presented for instructional and educational purposes only. Auto Obsessed accepts no liability for any loss or damage whatsoever or howsoever caused in reliance upon such information, application or services. As your results may vary from ours, always know your own product and application and ensure that all techniques used are suitable for your purposes as your results may vary from ours.

TOOL DEFINITIONS: DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted part which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, ”What the…??”

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age.

SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.

BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of.

TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle.

E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any possible future use.

BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.

CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A very large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle. This was a time before pry bars.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws.

PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. Also to open the end of a finger or thumb (blowout) thereby causing a lot of blood cleanup on walls, floors, etc.

MECHANIC’S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front d oor; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while wearing them.

DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling ”DAMMIT” at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.