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Make a hanging painted driftwood art project embellished with marbles, shells, beads, wire and paint. http://www.chongolio.com/hanging-driftwood-art-vlog-18/

For more tips, tricks and techniques to help release your creativity and inner artist come visit my website at

Hey Chongolio here combing the beach
for driftwood to use in a creative project I’d like to share
with you. So kick off your shoes and come dig VLOG 18.

Before we get started here is a quick peek at the finished
driftwood art that I am going to be working on in this video episode.

Here is the driftwood that’ll be using for this found art project.
I left it outside for a few days to dry in the sun and get rid of any bugs

that may have been calling at home. Now that the pieces are dry, I’m going to use a stiff bristle brush to further clean the nooks and crannies and remove any dirt and sand.

A spray bottle filled with a solution of bleach and water is also good to use to help kill off any funky germs and what not.

If you have any rubber gloves, you may wanna put them on for this step. Now that are wood is nice and clean. let’s drill some holes, stick some marbles in and thread wire through.

For the marble holes, I’m using a half inch bit and using a circular motion to help bore out the holes.

Test the holes for size as you continue to bore them out until the
marbles fit snugly.

Driftwood can be prone to chipping, but a piece of medium grit sandpaper can help smooth out the holes.

On the opposite side of the wood and at a 90 degree angle to the marble holes, I will drill some more hole using a 3/16 inch drill bit
which will be used to run wire through.

To attach the pieces to the hangar base, you are also going to need to put some holes into the piece of wood that you want to use for your base.

Or you could just skip using a base and hang your driftwood as individual projects. Now let’s get to the decorating and embellishing.

With some basic white acrylic paint, I’m gonna paint the tips of the wood where I drilled the marble holes.

You can paint the entire stick if you like but I like to keep some of the wood exposed for natural contrast to the color of the paint. it’s all up to you so just go ahead and do what your creativity tells you.

Use different paint colors to add stripes, dots and patterns. Don’t fret about making a perfect line, part of the charm lies in the imperfections.

One of the things that I am most attracted to about this style of painting and creativity is the primitive and tribal look and feel that these pieces imbue.

After the painting is done and it’s good and dry, I will put on a few coats of Delta Ceramcoat polyurethane to help protect and keep the paint from flaking and chipping.

When the polyurethane varnish was dry, I used these metallic markers over the top to add an eye zinging touch to these sticks.

They work better over the varnish, that way the acrylic paint won’t gum up the tips and they don’t lose their metallic finish.

Some Alene’s tacky glue along the inside the larger holes help
secure the marble snugly in place.

A damp Q-tip was also helpful to clean off the marbles of any excess glue.

To add some shell embellishments, I busted out the ol’ glue gun, filled the shells up with hot glue and stuck them to the ends of the hanger’s base. These added shells make this stick look like it’s got a face!

Another technique I used was decoupaging with Mod Podge. I drew some eyeballs on some scrap paper and glued them above the marble holes to create even more stick faces.

I spread a dab of mod podge over the top to help seal and protect the decoupaged paper.

To attach the sticks to the base, I am going to use some colored wire scavenged from an unused Ethernet cable.

I am also going to use a colored wood bead to wrap the wire around to keep from slipping through the holes in the base.

With one end of the wire wrapped around the bead I’m gonna thread the other end through the base and through the stick, back up to the base and wrap the other end of the wire around the bead again.

I use wire cutters to snip the wire and wrap the loose end around itself below the bead.

A little hot glue around the holes in the base, will help keep the sticks facing the right direction.

The last step is to run one more piece of wire through the center hole of the base and make a loop so that this creations is ready for hanging.

And there you have it a funky, funny faced hanging driftwood art in a tree.

I hope this video helped inspire you to use your imagination and make your own found art creation with the things you find.

If you do, be sure to let me know about it on Facebook or Twitter. I’ll catch you next time. Aloha!

This tutorial shows how to make a latex Batman mask, cast from a plaster mold. This method can be applied to any mask design. It’s not a perfect process, but it is a good budget option, easy for beginners.

Read FAQ below for answers to the most common questions:

How much does this cost?
Estimated cost is about $10 for the mold, and $5 for each mask cast. It’s best to buy mask-making latex by the gallon, for about $50. A gallon of latex is enough to make several masks with. Buying the latex, plaster, and clay to start mask making can put you back around $60, most of that being the cost of latex. Probably not the cheapest method for making only a single mask (unless you can find only a half-gallon or pint of latex), but great for multiple projects.

Where can I buy latex?
It’s best to buy liquid latex for mask-making on online stores, like eBay, or from other effects product suppliers. These suppliers usually have it in stock:

http://myworld.ebay.com/ecbarista/

http://myworld.ebay.com/fun_fx/

If you can find a local source, that can be cheaper.
MAKE SURE that if you buy latex, it’s specifically latex for mask-making. Other more common “molding ” latex products are not safe on skin.

Where can I get good, cheap clay?
The clay I used was a water-based pottery clay I bought at Hobby Lobby. A 25-pound box for $10 (with a 40% off coupon). That’s a great start, a lot of clay that can last a while. It’s soft and easy to work with for beginners. Or most arts and craft stores should have a 10-pound box of cheap modeling clay for under $10.

Why not just buy the costume mask? It looks better than this one…
It depends on your head. Heh. My nose is a bit large, and so my face looked rather goofy on the costume mask This one fits my head better, doesn’t have a Velcro seam at the back, and better proportioned overall.
However, getting a perfectly smooth finish on a mask like this is very difficult. That would come down to having a very clean mold, which I didn’t have. If you take the time, a homemade mask like this can look better than the costume version.

See how I made a Bane mask and the rest of the Batsuit:

See the video I made with this, along with the rest of the costume, here:

More detailed instructions and material lists:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Latex-Mask-Part-1-Plaster-Head-Mold-and-Clay-Scul/

http://www.instructables.com/id/Latex-Mask-Part-2-Molding-the-Sculpt-and-Casting-/

Time-lapse of mask sculpt: