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http://Collisionblast.com – MARINE-CLEAN cleans and degreases in one application without leaving residues, noxious fumes or flammable solvents.

MARINE CLEANTM is a complex mixture of organic & inorganic chemicals. It is non-toxic, biodegradable, water-based, and has no noxious odors nor chlorinated solvents. It doesn’t contain any petroleum products and has no flash point. Marine Clean repre- sents a revolutionary breakthrough in cleaners, degreasers and dispersants.

Use MARINE-CLEANTM for cleaning and degreasing machinery parts, turbine blades, diesel engines, compressors,transformers, bulkheads, deck plates, bilge areas; removal of oily deposits found in closed systems such as air conditioning, boiler tubes, compressor lines, heat exchangers and coils; removal of light distillates, mineral oils, heavy grease, degreasing all metal surfaces, plastics, wood, fiberglass, painted surfaces. Always wear eye protection and rubber gloves when using Marine Clean.

FEATURES
• Biodegradable aqueous cleaning agent
• Low sudsing
• Broad materials and surface compatibility
• Non-corrosive
• Does not contain petroleum or caustic chemicals
• Non-flammable
Applications
Pre-paint cleaning and degreasing prior to the application of paint or primer to aid coating adhesion.
Removal of dirt, grease, and soil from components to avoid contamination.
Cosmetic cleaning of components or surfaces after use, disassembly, or for aesthetics.
Pre-plate cleaning prior to plating, welding, anodizing, or similar surface finishing to aid adhesion of the surface finish. Pre-bond cleaning prior to the application of an adhesive or sealant to aid in bonding one surface or component to another. Hydraulic components and bearings that require a high level of cleanliness due to close tolerances and other physical parameters.

SHOULD MARINE CLEAN ALWAYS BE DILUTED WITH WATER?
Yes. Marine Clean will actually be more effective if it is diluted at least 1:1 with water.

DOES TEMPERATURE AFFECT THE CLEANING ACTION?
Yes. A hot solution will work better and faster, so dilute with hot water and store Marine Clean indoors.
WHAT DILUTION IS MOST EFFECTIVE?
That depends on the job to be done. 1:1 is best for engine cleaning, removing baked-on oil from cylinder heads, removing gum and varnish from fuel tanks. To clean exterior surfaces of cars or boats, use dilutions beginning at 1 part Marine Clean to 5 parts water through to10 parts water. Always remember to thoroughly rinse off Marine Clean with water after completing your cleaning job.
HOW FAST WILL MARINE CLEAN DO THE JOB?
That also depends on the job. Baked-on oil may take up to 2 hours of soaking before it can be easily brushed or sponged off; gum and varnish in a gas tank may take 24 hours or more. Hot solution works better.
DOES METAL THAT’S BEEN CLEANED WITH MARINE CLEAN HAVE TO BE TREATED WITH METAL-READY RUST REMOVER/ PREPRIMER BEFORE GAS TANK SEALER OR POR-15 RUST PREVENTIVE PAINT CAN BE USED?
Yes. Marine Clean is a powerful caustic solution that leaves an alkaline finish on metal. An acid finish takes paint better because it etches the metal and gives it a surface profile with “tooth” for the topcoat paint to bite into. Our Metal-Ready Rust Remover/Preprimer is the perfect prep to use on any surface that’s been cleaned with Marine Clean first.
WHAT ARE OTHER USES FOR MARINE CLEAN?
Cleaning and degreasing of machinery parts, turbine blades, diesel engines, compressors, transformers, bulkheads, deck plates, bilge areas; removal of oily deposits found in closed systems such as: air conditioning, boiler tubes, compressor lines, heat exchangers and coils; removal of light distillates, mineral oils, heavy grease, degreasing all metal surfaces, plastics, wood, fiberglass, painted surfaces. Remember to thoroughly rinse off Marine Clean with water after completing your cleaning job.
ALWAYS WEAR EYE PROTECTION AND RUBBER GLOVES WHEN USING MARINE CLEAN.

Ideally one would want to dawn rubber gloves and wear those throughout the process shown. Although I took the voltage high here at 59 volts at one point I don’t really recommend going that high. I would instead suggest staying under 30 volts. This not only keeps arcing at a minimum but its easier to get uniform color spread with voltages starting at 12 volts upwards to 28 volts for a nice blue color. Dipping in a tank is preferred but otherwise this works for anodizing if you have a power source but are not set up with much. You could in fact get a nice sudued dirty brown or olive drab color with a 12 volt car battery doing this same thing.. It is however always a risk and proper safey measures such as gloves and safety glasses and even a rubber mat by rubbermaid like what I sit on in this video are all good ideas.

I should have noted in the video also that instead of using a Scotchbrite pad to take any surface oxidation off the metal parts, Smoky Mt. Knife Works sells a little item called, “The RUST Eraser” that every knife nut should have. You can slice these blocks or erasers any thickness you like so these also work to clean up the back spring or other metal areas one has to take surface oxidation off of after you color the liners. These are handy for cleaning out the insides of old folders also. These erasers can fit once you slice one so that it only requires a good swipe once or twice covering the entire area of the back spring width all in one neat sweep. This way you don’t drift into the liners scratching the color off in places as you clean the other parts. If you do anodize this way you will tarnish the metal parts some and if you leave the alligator clip in one place too long it will spark off on you. I don’t recommend doing this if the folder you are going to be coloring liners on has carbon blades and/or backsprings or other parts that can be oxidized to form rust patches. Even stainless can corrode this way so again, it is just for example taking into account that I have done this many times in the past.

On a lot of the open build type folders being offered today in the industry such as, Benchmade and Emerson liner locks (some Emerson years had one side cheesy cheap stainless liner instead of the titanium but the lock side is titanium) this works great to anodize the liners without even having to take the knife apart. Of course it does nothing to change them inside or on the sides. So if you were to want to color the entire liner inside and out then you’d have to then disassemble the knife. Remember to seal the stainless steel detent ball in the lock and the non lock side on Emerson liners with a dab of nail polish and then remove it after dipping to color anodize. Failing to remember this step could result in a gritty feeling action due to oxidation on your stainless balls from anodizing.. You can also use duct tape if you don’t dip too long and it works just fine in most all cases.