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FAQ Content

Blending the Rubber Ingredients:
The industrial process for making bicycle tires starts with raw synthetic rubber being fed into a milling machine. Rollers within the machine break up and soften the rubber. Other ingredients, such as mineral oil, zinc oxide, sulfur, carbon black and silica are then added to the rubber while it is being milled. These ingredients are mixed thoroughly with the rubber and make it more elastic and durable. Once completely mixed, the rubber is ready to be processed.
Casing Preparation:
Some of the rubber is then spread by a roller press to form a wide, thin, continuous sheet of rubber. The sheet is then fed into another machine to be bonded to woven nylon matting. The matting is removed from large roles and passed through the bonding machine along with the rubber sheet. The two are then welded together.

Casing Construction
A metal drum in a forming machine is then used to construct the layers of the tire. First, the nylon matting and rubber material is cut into properly sized strips that will become the casing of the tire. The strips are then placed around the drum so that the ends meet to form a complete ring. Two Kevlar cords are then wound onto the matting and completely around the drum. These will act as the rims of the tire. The drum is then expanded, forcing the Kevlar cords onto the rubber on the matting. The edges of the matting are then folded over the Kevlar cords.
Tread Construction
Two layers of hard and dense rubber are then sandwiched together and formed into a strip that is a precise width and thickness. A piece of this rubber strip is then laid onto the center of, and completely around, the casing. This material will eventually form the tread of the tire. The finished tire casing is now ready to be pressed and vulcanized.
Tire Pressing
The casing is next inserted into a press that will heat the rubber and form the tire in a process called vulcanization. This process first melts the rubber, fusing all of the parts of the tire together. Then the tire is pressed into a mold that creates the treads. As the rubber cools, it hardens into its final form. The finished tire can then be removed from the press.
Testing
A sampling from each batch of newly made tires is then tested. The road wear test simulates thousands of miles of wear on the tires. The puncture resistance and pressurization limit of the tires is also tested. If the sampling passes these tests, the tires are then packaged for sale.

CLEARCOAT APPLICATION
Applying your Clear Top Coat

What You Need:

* Clearcoat (Parts A & B)
* 3/8 Nap Roller & Squeegee
* Threaded Broom handle
* Paint Brush
* Painters Tape
* Spike Shoes
* Latex Protective Gloves
* Paint Stick or Jiffy Mixer

In this application video, you will be learning how to apply both the waterborne clear coat epoxy and the urethane topcoat.

First is the waterborne epoxy clear coat. It is a two component, eco friendly and easy to use thin-mil sealer for your epoxy floor system. This clear coat can be used on your garage floor or in your basement. It’s non-flammable, high gloss, chemical resistant and has no odor. This clear coat is not UV resistant and should not be used outdoors. Directly in the sun, the clear coat will discolor and turn yellow.

Second is the Urethane Clear coat. It is a clear two component polyurethane floor sealer designed for maximum chemical resistance, abrasion resistance and uv-resistance. It is a flammable liquid and should only be used in a well-ventilated area, NEVER should it be used in a basement or confined space. It works great as a long lasting clearcoat for garages, auto service centers and exterior applications such as porches or sidewalks.

The importance of a clear coat is to not only provide chemical and abrasion resistance but also to protect your color chips. Without a clear top coat, your floor will be harder to clean and the chips will become dirty, faded and will wear down over time.

To begin, slowly add the clear coat Part B to the clear coat Part A. Please mix each clear coat according to the mix ratios provided in the individual product instructions. After the two parts are combined; mix well with slow speed mixing equipment such as a jiffy mixer or paint stick until the material is thoroughly mixed and streak free. Improper mixing may result in product failure.

If you are using the waterborne clear coat, its mixed and applied appearance will be milky white and may even look like white paint but it will dry Crystal Clear.

If you are using the urethane clear coat, its mixed and applied appearance will be clear and will dry crystal clear. Urethane is a flammable liquid and produces flammable vapor upon mixing. USE ONLY WITH ADEQUATE VENTILATION. Cross ventilation and using a disposable respirator is a good idea. Please extinguish any source of flame like pilot lights prior to application. Do not smoke around.

Allow the mixed material to stand 30 minutes for induction time. Always re-stir before use. Mixed material is usable for four to six hours.

After the material is thoroughly mixed, use a brush or small roller to cut in along the walls, expansion joints and hard to reach areas.

After you are finished cutting in, apply the clear coat from the container in thin ribbons on top of the basecoat in small sections at a time. Start painting in the corner furthest away from the exit of the room. The preferred and easiest method for applying the clear top coat is to use a serrated squeegee and spread the material out over the surface. If you chose not to use a squeegee; just a roller will suffice. After you have covered the surface area, use a 3/8 nap roller to back roll the clear coat to level out the coverage area. Use a pair of spike shoes or golf cleats to allow you to walk over the wet clear coat. This ensures that the coating has covered all the surface area sufficiently and keeps it from streaking. Please avoid rolling out the clear coat too thick for it can cause possible issues such as white patches or cloudiness.

When applying a topcoat, walk on previously applied chip/basecoat with clean shoes or socks only. Any dirt or debris tracked on to the chips or basecoat will be sealed in by application of clear topcoat. If you come to the end of your floor and you still have clear coat left over, do not use the mixed material to add thickness to the layer you just put down.

If you chose to topcoat this product, you must first be sure that all of the solvents and water have evaporated from the coating during the curing process. Usually you are able to recoat after 14 hours.

You can test this by pressing on the coating with your thumb to verify that no fingerprint impression is left. If no impression is created, then the recoat or topcoat can be started.

The clear coat dries to light foot traffic in 24 hours. You can move heavy items on it in 36-48 hours. Please wait 7 days for full cure before vehicle traffic.

Option Steps:

Surfaces coated with high-gloss epoxy or urethane may become slippery when wet. For additional slip resistance in areas of pedestrian traffic, use a Non-Skid Additive. While painting your Clearcoat; roll forward, lightly sprinkle non-skid grit; then back roll over it once again. Be sure not to apply non-skid in a high-concentration. Sprinkle at 1 can per 500+ square feet.