High Quality for 24″ rubber glove with cotton linning-smooth finish in San Francisco

FAQ Content

PCG100
Search Pro Puncture Cut Protective Glove

.8mm premium-grade aniline goatskin
Dyneema® liner for premium cut resistance
Three layers of TWP material provides an extremely high level of puncture protection
Moisture wicking spandex knit back for comfort, flexibility, and abrasion resistance
Hook and loop closure for a secure fit
Contour cut design with wrapped forefingers for maximum tactility, dexterity, and durability

The PCG100 is the most comfortable puncture resistant glove available with cut protection. The PCG100 has a high level of puncture resistance in the fingertips. Features a full Dyneema® liner for superior cut protection. Constructed with aniline goatskin in the palm and moisture wicking, breathable spandex back. The special contour cut offers the ultimate dexterity and comfort.

DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS BELOW:
A quick overview and demo of how to paint a Kawasaki KLR650 with Khaki (or Sand) colored Kyrlon Fusion spray paint. I also painted the tank with Rustoleum Truck Bed Liner. See below for more details.

The best part of painting a KLR 650 is that you just don’t have to take yourself too seriously. Honestly, if you ride it like you should, it should be getting dings, scratches, scrapes, and buffs. That’s what’s nice about spray paint… if you want it to look fresh and clean again, all you need to do is bit of masking and spray away.

Krylon Fusion is incredibly tough stuff. I’ve been super impressed with how it’s held up on my bike. The truck bed liner is also great, but it is difficult to clean/wipe off when it’s dirty.

Thanks to @sonyponyable for requesting the video. I’ve been meaning to get to this for a long time, so thanks for the request.

If you want to do a seriously “professional” job, you’ll want to remove the plastics and the tank before you spray. Make sure to mask off any important bits (like the fuel petcock). I used some rougher (120) grit 3M automotive sandpaper to “buff” out any scratches that were on the stock plastics. After that, I used a fine grit (1000) to get it ready for the paint. Once the plastics and tank was sanded, I cleaned it off with water and then baby wipes so I wasn’t painting over plastic/enamel dust.

On the tank, I really sanded it until the stickers looked dull, but they were by no means gone. Three coats of bed liner and the sticker was barely noticeable. Make sure not to let the bed liner drip, as it will stay that way.

The fork shoes were painted using Rustoleum bumper paint. Worked like a charm… I didn’t want to take those off to paint so I just sprayed lightly and masked around them like a madman.

I gave it three solid coats, waiting about 30 minutes between coats. I did let it “cure” for about a week (while I was fixing other things on the bike) . After that, it was pretty darn scratch resistant, as you can see in the film.

Again, it’s nice to be able to touch up your bike with a bit of masking and a few blasts with a spray can.

For the initial job, use lots of paint, lots of newspaper and masking tape, and don’t take yourself too seriously. Trust me, that Krylon is pretty forgiving.

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