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Mystic High Voltage 4×3 D/L Front Zip Wetsuit 2013

Available at: https://www.kingofwatersports.com/item.do?item=29528&path=mystic-high-voltage4x3-wetsuit-2013-i29528.html&canonical=http://www.kingofwatersports.com/mystic-high-voltage4x3-wetsuit-2013-i29528.html

It’s almost a lie to call this a ‘wet’-suit, with double liquid seals, inside and out and a new additional water barrier around the front zip, there’s no water getting through this bad boy. Boasting feather light foam and 100% M-Flex neoprene, this super flexible ultra lightweight suit is the Rolls Royce of wetsuits.

Neoprene:

M-FLEX (TRI SPAN) 100%
The most flexible neoprene in our range. M-flex gives maximum flex and durability.

TEDDY PRENE PLUSH
A soft feel interior lining that reflects body heat.

Smelly suits are History with Polygiene Technology

The Polygene will give your wetsuit a permanet odor control

Without Polygiene:
Odor-causing bacteria settles into the material and multiplies

With Polygiene:
Inhibits the growth of odor-causing bacteria in the material, creating an odor free effect

How it works:
Sweat is odorless but helps create the perfect environment for odor-causing bacteria to multiply. When sweat mixes with odor-causing bacteria on fabrics, odor results.

Polygiene uses natural silver salt, a highly effective antimicrobial agent, to safely inhibit the growth of odor-causing bacteria and fungi. However, Polygiene does not affect the natural bacterial flora of your skin. And without odor-causing bacteria, you stay fresh.

Features:

FRONT-ZIP SINGLE ENTRY
A single front-zip construction is positioned above the chest-panel. This entry provides more stretch for your back compared to a back-zip entry.

DEBOSSED NON SLIP CUFFS
A silicon print located inside the cuff, to keep your cuffs in position and prevent water from coming in.

DIAMOND KNEEPADS
Our kneepads are made using highly durable materials, which have tightly woven fibers for better scratch prevention.

DOUBLE NECK
Neoprene on the outside, glideskin on the inside. For a nice touch on the neck, and provides rash protection.

VELCRO ANKLE CLOSURE
Velcro ankle straps to tighten the leg cuffs.

COLOURED PK ZIP
A strong full coloured waterproof zipper, with an extra waterproof coating.

AQUAFLUSH
Perforated neoprene that allows water to exit the suit, preventing the leg cuffs from filling up with water.

AQUABARRIER
Silicone printing which forms a barrier, preventing water from entering your suit.

KEYPOCKET
Internal nylon key pocket, located on the inside of the suit.

200% DOUBLE S-SEAMS
A rubber coating applied over the GBS seam. The 200% s-seam is positioned on the outside and the inside of the suit. The S-seam gives the suit a high-end finish that is both durable and waterproof.

GLUED BLIND STITCHED
Stitching method whereby the panels are first glued together and then only stitched halfway through the fabric instead of fully perforating it, which makes the seams waterproof.

Features:

- Lightweight neoprene
- Flex (Tri-span) 100%
- Teddy prene (Plush) inside
- 100% Double S-seams (Liquid Seals) inside and outside
- GBS (Glued Blind Stitched)
- Front zip single
- PK coated zip
- Double neck construction
- Pre-shaped double neck construction
- Diamond kneepads
- Aquaflush
- Velcro ankle closure
- Debossed cuffs
- Non slip cuffs
- Key pocket

Ideally one would want to dawn rubber gloves and wear those throughout the process shown. Although I took the voltage high here at 59 volts at one point I don’t really recommend going that high. I would instead suggest staying under 30 volts. This not only keeps arcing at a minimum but its easier to get uniform color spread with voltages starting at 12 volts upwards to 28 volts for a nice blue color. Dipping in a tank is preferred but otherwise this works for anodizing if you have a power source but are not set up with much. You could in fact get a nice sudued dirty brown or olive drab color with a 12 volt car battery doing this same thing.. It is however always a risk and proper safey measures such as gloves and safety glasses and even a rubber mat by rubbermaid like what I sit on in this video are all good ideas.

I should have noted in the video also that instead of using a Scotchbrite pad to take any surface oxidation off the metal parts, Smoky Mt. Knife Works sells a little item called, “The RUST Eraser” that every knife nut should have. You can slice these blocks or erasers any thickness you like so these also work to clean up the back spring or other metal areas one has to take surface oxidation off of after you color the liners. These are handy for cleaning out the insides of old folders also. These erasers can fit once you slice one so that it only requires a good swipe once or twice covering the entire area of the back spring width all in one neat sweep. This way you don’t drift into the liners scratching the color off in places as you clean the other parts. If you do anodize this way you will tarnish the metal parts some and if you leave the alligator clip in one place too long it will spark off on you. I don’t recommend doing this if the folder you are going to be coloring liners on has carbon blades and/or backsprings or other parts that can be oxidized to form rust patches. Even stainless can corrode this way so again, it is just for example taking into account that I have done this many times in the past.

On a lot of the open build type folders being offered today in the industry such as, Benchmade and Emerson liner locks (some Emerson years had one side cheesy cheap stainless liner instead of the titanium but the lock side is titanium) this works great to anodize the liners without even having to take the knife apart. Of course it does nothing to change them inside or on the sides. So if you were to want to color the entire liner inside and out then you’d have to then disassemble the knife. Remember to seal the stainless steel detent ball in the lock and the non lock side on Emerson liners with a dab of nail polish and then remove it after dipping to color anodize. Failing to remember this step could result in a gritty feeling action due to oxidation on your stainless balls from anodizing.. You can also use duct tape if you don’t dip too long and it works just fine in most all cases.