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FAQ Content

Video tutorial on how to diagnose and repair the blend door actuator on a Ford Ranger. The two main issues with a failing blend door actuator is when you adjust the interior temperature on the hvac control panel, you will either hear a clicking sound or the temperature will be stuck on either hot, cold, or won’t adjust the cabin temperature. If you catch the issue in the right time, then it is repairable and you don’t need to buy a replacement actuator. This particular vehicle I am working with is a 1998 Ford Ranger, but a similar procedure may also apply to Mazda B series models as well.

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-grease
-cloth
-contact cleaner
-blend door actuator
-gear replacement
-multimeter
-standard/flat screwdriver

Procedure:
-as mentioned above the two main issues is you will either hear a clicking sound in the dash when adjusting the temperature or the temperature can’t be adjusted
-it is located behind the glove box
-remove the contents of the glove box, then bend the sides in and pull down
-this will expose the main duct and the blend door actuator is either a white or black box, this will depend if it’s been replaced before or not and is located on the top
-remove the electrical connector, simply depress the tab and pull out
-the electrical connector can be both back probed using a multimeter when in place or disconnected to test the controller circuit
-wiring may vary between the years so check a wiring diagram specific to your vehicle
-the pinout diagram will say which pin location connects to what part of the circuit
-turn the ignition in the run position
-using a multimeter on the lowest DC voltage setting, check to ensure if there is power at the circuit, along with a sufficient ground
-now setting the multimeter to the lowest ohms setting, we will measure the resistance of the potentiometer in the hvac control panel
-values will vary depending on what your cabin temperature is set at
-if it fails any parts of the test, then there is an issue with the hvac control panel or the wiring
-we can simply remove the actuator and inspect if it’s functioning correctly
-to remove it, simply depress the two tabs on the front and use a standard screwdriver to pop it up
-use the assistance of a standard screwdriver to disconnect the actuator
-another issue is that the shaft can break, either on the unit or on the door within the duct
-if the door has broken within the duct, then the duct will need to be disassembled for replacement
-plug the actuator back into the electrical connector, turn the ignition in the run position and test
-rotate the air temperature control and watch to see if the shaft rotates
-it doesn’t have a large amount of movement and won’t move fast either
-using a smaller standard screwdriver, slowly pop the tabs around the outside
-try to hold it apart so it doesn’t clip closed again
-remove the cap and then everything will be exposed inside
-wipe off any old lubricant
-I used a paint marker just to align the gears to make it easier for reassembly
-then remove the gears and continue to clean off the old lubricant
-inspect gears for any damage
-the small gear driven by the motor, I have seen a replacement on Ebay if yours needs to be replaced and it’s much cheaper than buying a new replacement unit
-clean the potentiometer with electronic contact clean and a clean rag
-do not contaminate this area with any oil or grease and inspect for any damage
-ensure the contacts on the shaft gear which run against the potentiometer is cleaner and make sure they ride correctly on the swipe area
-apply lithium grease to the gears and shafts they ride on
-reassemble the gears, lining everything back up and ensure the case is snapped back together
-test to make sure it is working correctly
-for reinstalling the actuator back onto the duct, if you have moved it, then that’s not an issue
-connect the electrical connector, turn the ignition on and then slowly rotate temperature selector, eventually the actuator will fall into it’s slot, then snap the unit back into place
-test again
-push the glovebox back into place by pulling in the sides again

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All Rights Reserved
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Video Highlights
0:18 Kit includes
0:37 First step before starting install
1:20 Cutting to length
3:04 Insulating the Chimney Liner
4:29 How to lower into the chimney
5:40 Next Step will be Attaching to the appliance
6:00 Attaching the appliance adapter
7:16 Installing the insert
7:44 Installing the Top Plate
8:51 Cutting the access liner off
10:23 Attaching the Cap
11:44 Silicone the screws

Robert explains how to install Chimney Liner.

Installing a stainless steel chimney liner is an easy and economical way to repair a deteriorated, unsafe, or inefficient chimney flue. You will be able to install a chimney liner after reading this and watching the video. You can do the job with common household tools. A chimney liner should be installed to reduce the chance of a carbon monoxide leak, chimney fire, and creosote buildup. Chimney liners also improve the energy efficiency of the appliance and makes fireplace maintenance easier.

First, determine the appropriate size chimney liner for your specific setup. The chimney liner diameter size you will need will be the same size of the exhaust outlet on the appliance. The chimney liner length you will need will equal the height of the chimney. we recommend ordering slightly over that amount to give room for error.

Only a few tools are needed for a successful chimney liner installation. You’ll need a tin snips (or a sawzall or hacksaw), drill and bit, flat head screw driver, caulk gun, work gloves, and safety glasses.

Every basic chimney liner kit is going to come with four main components: the stainless steel chimney liner, connector (either a Tee connector or a Stove Top connector), top plate, and rain cap. This video shows a basic stove top installation.The top plate is going to be the main variable for a chimney liner kit.

Start by using your knife and remove the plastic wrap that the liner is coiled in. Once you have the liner out, start to straighten the liner. Make sure to do this on the grass or a soft surface so you don’t puncture it. Straighten the liner out as best as you can. It does not need to be perfect as you will have to do some manipulation to get it down the chimney.

After installing the insulation you will need to get the liner to the top of the chimney. Proceed to lower the liner down the chimney until you reach the damper or smoke shelf. You will need to do some adjustments when you get back inside to get it through this.

Twisting the flexible liner will help you install the liner if you are getting caught or hung up on the chimney walls.

Now you will need to head into the house to finish connecting the appliance.

Once the stove connection has been installed correctly, it is time to connect the stove pipe to the stove. Most stove pipe comes with three screws per connection point. Use your drill and drive the screws into the horizontal part of the tee and through the exhaust collar of the stove. using furnace cement to secure and stop any leaks.

Once the chimney liner is all the way down the flue to the point of the appliance, the next step is to connect the top plate to the top of the chimney. The main function for a top plate is to seal the existing flue from rain, wind and critters from entering the chimney. Start by using your caulk gun and a tube of weather resistant high-temp silicone to run a bead of silicone along the top edge of the clay flue.

Next, thread the chimney liner through the round collar of the top plate so that the top plate is sitting on the top edge of the clay flue.

When you have successfully installed the top plate, the next step is to cut the excess liner flush with the top of the collar of the top plate. Your sawzall or hacksaw will work just fine.

The next step is to secure the rain cap to the top plate. The Cap will just slide over and then tighten the clamp.

Congratulations, you have successfully installed a stainless steel, flexible chimney liner!

Click Here:http://tinyurl.com/lxloa28 To see all of our Chimney Liners.