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Find out when your glove fits like a glove and when it doesn’t!

https://gentl.mn/glove-fit-sizing

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I’m sure you’ve heard of the saying “fits like a glove” but what exactly does it mean?

The first thing to consider when you buy a glove is that you want the glove to be tight. What does that mean? When you go in for the first time, there shouldn’t be excess material, it should all fit neatly like a second layer of skin right next to it. Bare in mind, glove leather is flexible and will stretch over time so rather get something that feels too tight than something that is too loose.

The second aspect of gloves is the lengths of the fingers. Make sure that the thumb fits just like the fingers. Most of the time, you cannot go with your finger all the way to the skin but sometimes there’s just like half an inch or 2 cm in between and you can’t get there. Now, they still may feel like they fit but once you’ve worn a glove that really fits, there’s no comparison and you don’t want to go back anymore. Ideally, you want the quirks to be very close to your skin.

Now obviously, an unlined glove will always look more elegant than a lined glove. Most people would think this is a well fitting glove however, if you look closely, there is excess material here in the side and therefore, it’s half a size too big for me. Otherwise, it’s pretty good nevertheless, this is lightly too big and over time, it will become bigger. Check the glove, wear it and when in doubt, always go with a size smaller.

This brings us to glove sizing. Most source today have sizes in small, medium, large, sometimes, you find gloves that are one size fits all but there is no such thing as the glove that fits all hands, it’s simply impossible especially when it’s made of leather. Traditional glove sizes are in 7, 7.5, 8, 9, 9.5 and so forth. At Fort Belvedere, we carry all of our gloves in six different sizes. I also pay particular attention to the cut so we designed the cut with slightly longer fingers for larger hands and shorter fingers for smaller hands so you get the best and most elegant fit. With our range of 6 sizes, we cover about 99% of all men and it’s just important that you measure your hand correctly.

So how to determine your glove size? You need a measuring tape.
First, determine what your dominant hand is. In my case, it’s the right one. Then , you measure around the widest part of your hand, once around without the thumb like so. Take the measuring tape, hold it tight, get around and you want to keep it tight.

In my case, it’s 8.5 so my glove size is going to be 8 and 1/2. If you measure in centimeters, simply divide that number by 2.54. If you’re in between sizes, always go down. For example, if you measure 9.2, 9.3, 9.25, go with size 9. If you measure 7.4, you probably go with a 7.5 because it’s already a small hand but in general, always go down a size because the glove will stretch and it’s a flexible material. Also, if you have particularly long fingers, our gloves will definitely work for you if you go with a smaller size. If you have a wide hand and short fingers, also go a size down. Don’t go with the regular size. Our gloves will adapt and you will get a much better fit out of them.

One of the most important factors of fit is something you actually cannot see. It’s basically the softness of the glove. This glove here is made of Lamb Nappa from Fort Belvedere, it has quirks and when I move my hands, it’s just very soft. I don’t feel much resistance, it’s very comfortable and neat. On the other hand, I have a glove here that’s from a cheaper retailer and the gloves feel very stiff. The leather is stiff, when I move I can feel it pull everywhere and it’s not something I can show you in the video really, it’s something you have to experience. Once you wear the glove, you’ll know immediately what I mean. So if the glove feels particularly stiff, it’s usually not the best choice.

Of course, it also depends on the leather, lamb nappa and peccary have this soft, subtle feel that is one of a kind and you will not find that in deer skin or bison skin or cheaper leathers that are used usually when you buy a pair of gloves for 30 bucks.
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Blending the Rubber Ingredients:
The industrial process for making bicycle tires starts with raw synthetic rubber being fed into a milling machine. Rollers within the machine break up and soften the rubber. Other ingredients, such as mineral oil, zinc oxide, sulfur, carbon black and silica are then added to the rubber while it is being milled. These ingredients are mixed thoroughly with the rubber and make it more elastic and durable. Once completely mixed, the rubber is ready to be processed.
Casing Preparation:
Some of the rubber is then spread by a roller press to form a wide, thin, continuous sheet of rubber. The sheet is then fed into another machine to be bonded to woven nylon matting. The matting is removed from large roles and passed through the bonding machine along with the rubber sheet. The two are then welded together.

Casing Construction
A metal drum in a forming machine is then used to construct the layers of the tire. First, the nylon matting and rubber material is cut into properly sized strips that will become the casing of the tire. The strips are then placed around the drum so that the ends meet to form a complete ring. Two Kevlar cords are then wound onto the matting and completely around the drum. These will act as the rims of the tire. The drum is then expanded, forcing the Kevlar cords onto the rubber on the matting. The edges of the matting are then folded over the Kevlar cords.
Tread Construction
Two layers of hard and dense rubber are then sandwiched together and formed into a strip that is a precise width and thickness. A piece of this rubber strip is then laid onto the center of, and completely around, the casing. This material will eventually form the tread of the tire. The finished tire casing is now ready to be pressed and vulcanized.
Tire Pressing
The casing is next inserted into a press that will heat the rubber and form the tire in a process called vulcanization. This process first melts the rubber, fusing all of the parts of the tire together. Then the tire is pressed into a mold that creates the treads. As the rubber cools, it hardens into its final form. The finished tire can then be removed from the press.
Testing
A sampling from each batch of newly made tires is then tested. The road wear test simulates thousands of miles of wear on the tires. The puncture resistance and pressurization limit of the tires is also tested. If the sampling passes these tests, the tires are then packaged for sale.