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2017 Volkswagen Golf Alltrack

http://www.ontariovolkswagen.com/VehicleSearchResults?stockOrVIN=V170267

Ontario Volkswagen: Servicing Ontario CA near Claremont, Montclair, San Bernardino, Victorville, California
2017 Volkswagen Golf Alltrack SE – Stock#: V170267 – VIN#: 3VWH17AU9HM519726

http://www.ontariovolkswagen.com/

For more information on this vehicle and our full inventory, call us at (866) 874-0615

Ontario VW
701 S. Kettering Drive
Ontario CA 91761

2017 Volkswagen Golf Alltrack TSI SE White 1.8L I4 Turbocharged DOHC 16V ULEV II 170hpWe take great pride in our depth of VW knowledge, beautiful facility and great location but what really counts is our commitment to you, our customer. It is a commitment to superior customer service, honesty, and dedication to what we do that sets us apart. It is our goal to ensure you receive top quality care each time you visit us. Whether you’re a longtime customer or are brand-new to the Ontario VW family we thank you and look forward to seeing you soon.Cash Price Discount may not be combined with VW credit special APR or special Leases. See Dealer For Complete Details. Not all customer may qualify for special incentives. Proudly serving Ontario, Riverside, Riverside County, Orange County, Rancho Cucamonga, Mira Loma, Montclair, Pomona, Corona, Chino, Chino hills, Fontana, Colton, San Bernardino. Redlands, Yorba Linda.
ROADSIDE ASSISTANCE KIT -inc: booster cables warning triangle LED flashlight multi-tool work gloves PVC tape blanket poncho whistle cable ties and bandages,SECURITY WHEEL LOCKS (SET OF 4),S & SE DRIVER ASSISTANT PACKAGE -inc: Adaptive Cruise Control Park Distance Control (Park Pilot) Front & Rear parking steering assistant (Park Assist) Front Assist w/Autonomous Emergency Braking,LUGGAGE NET -inc: For securing items in the cargo area,ALLTRACK RUBBER MAT KIT -inc: Monster Mats w/Alltrack Logo (set of 4) and heavy duty trunk liner w/CarGo blocks,Turbocharged,All Wheel Drive,Power Steering,ABS,4-Wheel Disc Brakes,Brake Assist,Aluminum Wheels,Tires – Front Performance,Tires – Rear Performance,Temporary Spare Tire,Sun/Moonroof,Generic Sun/Moonroof,Dual Moonroof,Heated Mirrors,Power Mirror(s),Integrated Turn Signal Mirrors,Rear Defrost,Intermittent Wipers,Variable Speed Intermittent Wipers,Rain Sensing Wipers,Rear Spoiler,Power Door Locks,Fog Lamps,Daytime Running Lights,Automatic Headlights,AM/FM Stereo,CD Player,Premium Sound System,Satellite Radio,MP3 Player,Bluetooth Connection,Auxiliary Audio Input,HD Radio,Steering Wheel Audio Controls,Power Driver Seat,Power Passenger Seat,Bucket Seats,Heated Front Seat(s),Driver Adjustable Lumbar,Passenger Adjustable Lumbar,Pass-Through Rear Seat,Rear Bench Seat,Adjustable Steering Wheel,Trip Computer,Power Windows,Telematics,Leather Steering Wheel,Keyless Entry,Keyless Start,Cruise Control,A/C,Premium Synthetic Seats,Driver Vanity Mirror,Passenger Vanity Mirror,Driver Illuminated Vanity Mirror,Passenger Illuminated Visor Mirror,Floor Mats,Cargo Shade,Smart Device Integration,Security System,Engine Immobilizer,Traction Control,Stability Control,Front Side Air Bag,Tire Pressure Monitor,Driver Air Bag,Passenger Air Bag,Front Head Air Bag,Rear Head Air Bag,Passenger Air Bag Sensor,Child Safety Locks,Back-Up Camera

Please be careful when doing automotive work! My videos are not intended to supplant professional advice. I am not responsible for improper or substandard work. Cars are heavy and they can hurt and kill you, always use proper protection …eyes, ears, gloves etc. jack stands too!

What a day this was. 2008 Mini Cooper Convertible. 150k miles approximately. Tire wore unevenly and went flat a few weeks ago. Garage couldn’t align the wheels because the passenger side tie rod was frozen. Eileen (owner of the car) went to the mini dealer for a quote on replacement. $900 for parts and labor for inner and out tie rod ends. I went online, looked for parts, and found out that there is a delineation between SOHC and DOHC engines on rockauto.com …. so I asked Eileen for the VIN # … Vin # check online showed DOHC. Eileen called the dealer w/ VIN, DOHC. Ok… so she ordered the tie rods accordingly. For this job, need tie rod ends (inner and outer….the came together and single assemblies), new rubber boots, and a Haynes manual. We had today to install the parts. Took a wheel off, drivers side was totally fine (although I eventually did change it out anyway, just to keep things even). Went to the passengers side to do the video (hence the switch in the video). Passengers side was frozen. Turn the wheel for better access. Cut the tie rod towards the boot end w/ grinder or sawzall (I prefer lennox gold blades on the sawzall for this job, but we used the grinder…just have to watch out for sparks!). Remove the outer ball joint w/ ball joint puller. The one here that I got from Harbor Freight works brilliantly. Just be careful because there’s a lot of force being used and the joint pops!. Remove the boot clips and remove the boot. Then use the inner tie rod end tool to remove the inner tie rod end. YOU NEED THIS TOOL, JOB IS NOT POSSIBLE WITHOUT IT. Best w/ an extension and breaker bar. Inner tie rod thread that goes into the power steer rack is a DIFFERENT SIZE than the one that we bought from rockauto. DOH! Best I can tell, the car is likely SOHC not DOHC and the information according to the VIN # is INCORRECT. SO!!!… went to NAPA, part was in stock but at a different store. pep boys and autozone were “special order”. Ok, drive to other napa store. Inner ends have the correct thread! yey! ONE OTHER DIFFERENCE that I didn’t note was that on the part we got from rockauto, the OUTER tie rod end threads looked HEAVIER than the stock part. The new napa outer tie rod end had identical ball joint threads (and taper). New inner tie rod goes in, 59 ft lbs (was the rating online…so we went w/ that) w/ blue Loctite. Then the boot. Then the nut, then you need the collar for the outer tie rod end. Footnote: this little collar piece was needed for the outer tie rod end due to the fact that it was tapered and the taper locks the inner tie rod end thread to the outer tie rod when the nut engages it. I had to SALVAGE the collar from the old (stock) tie rod ends. Next step we had to take was to cut 3/16″ or so from the end of the inner tie rod end. When we test fit (sorry, the video is a bit out of order and confusing here), the outer tie rod was fully tightened and the wheel appeared to be still slightly toed in. (even though the steer wheel was straight). Since that was the limit of the adjustment, we needed to cut the tip off the threaded part of the inner tie rod end so there’d be more adjustment possible. Then we put the outer tie rod on w/ antisieze. Outer ball joint installed w/ torque wrench to 38 ft lbs (mark 1 mini model … check the Haynes manual). Wheel back on, 88 ft lbs lug nuts … DONE. I did the passenger side myself in 30 minutes, and that’s even w/ having the complication of stripping out the nut on the outer ball joint. Its a nylon locking nut with minimal steel thread, and the ball joint taper, when fully seated, is high enough that when the nut is fully seated against the knuckle, it engages minimal thread on the ball joint. It would better to have a washer in my opinion… but the old (stock) nut worked just fine. Frankly, with the right parts and tools, this is NOT a difficult job. Eileen basically did the whole thing herself w/ minimal strain and injury.

Perhaps someone can post better part #’s? and/or clear this up…that be great.

Must have tools and products:

Harbor Freight Ball joint separator (around $20).
Inner tie rod tool (CARQUEST or other vendor $100)
Blue locktite
Antisieze compound (permatex)
1/2″ Torquewrench …extentions and sockets.
Screwdrivers and diagonal cutters (for the boots).
Haynes Manual

here’s the link that I found that helped through the process

http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/201385-replacing-inner-tie-rod-tie-rod-assembly-any-tips-and-diy.html