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FAQ Content

Here I am doing basic glass cutting on a scrap piece of glass, actually it’s a mirror. For much more videos about basic glass cutting, etc. see the playlist: http://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL4A57AB2EFB9566F9&feature=plcp

Do not attempt to cut (pre) Tempered Glass, it cannot be cut and is designed to shatter to small pieces for safty purposes. You can cut (flat) Plate Glass.

The “glass cutter” does not actually cut through the glass, it just scratches or “scores” it, so it should be called either a “glass scratcher/scorer” or a “tool of glass cutting”.

The score is then used when you actually break or snap the glass along this “weakened” line (or even curves are possible). Technically, you try to “bend” both sides along the score downward to “open” (not compress) the crack up to the back side of the glass. In the vid. I show holding the piece of glass with my hands as a lot of people seem to do – especially with small pieces, but it’s safer to put the glass on a firm surface first and/or wear gloves.

To remove the sharp parts after cutting the glass, I used some sandstone I found down by the river. Just about any stone or cement will do, just dont use something too hard like smooth quartz since it tends to just “glide” over the glass. Use both straight and circular motion with the stone at about a 45 degree angle to the glass to bevel it to a non-sharp/thin semi-round surface. It is good though to have an electric grinder or rotary tool like a Dremel incase the break leaves some sizeable bumps of glass areas that would be difficult to grind by hand. If you dont have that, perhaps a larger piece of smooth cement might work ok.

Be sure to sweep up and vacuum any glass shards.

Note you can use a flat rule made of metal, wood, or plastic to guide the glass cutter, but be sure its not too thin since you do not want to damage the “cutting wheel” (the part that scores the glass) if it came in contact with metal.

About the tool I made; the ruler-straightedge with the rubber attached to the back. The rubber (or nylon) was cut from a bicycle inner-tube, and was attached with contact cement which is very sticky and somewhat flexible. This glue is sometimes called “rubber cement”. I got a tube for about $1. I also lightly scratched both surfaces of the rubber for better adhesion of the glue and for better “holding” ability on the glass. I guess you could also use some flat erasor type material too instead of the inner tube material. Silicone rubber or a thin coat or beads of dried caulking might be ok. Some tape can possibly be used to secure the straightrule, but you might have to clean up any residue left from the tape unless you put the tape right on the rule itself. When you cut the bicycle tube, avoid breathing the powder (usually talc or talcum), so rinse the tube segment with hot soapy water and let it dry.

Keep the “scoring wheel” oiled. I just keep/store that end in a glass with some clear oil in it. I use cheap “mineral oil” from the dollar/drug store.

Find some flat glass pieces and practice a bit on them so that you are prepared to cut glass when you need to.

Here is a good website about glass cutters, care and use:

http://www.freepatternsforstainedglass.com/your-glass-cutter.html

JeffJag is a Denver, CO abstract artist who posts high quality time-lapse and stop motion videos of his artwork every other Friday. Daily updated Art Blog – http://artblog.jeffjag.com

This video was released a week apart from the others as part of my Awesome October promotion. Check out what it’s all about here – http://youtu.be/-T6IdAEFIzU

This one has been a while in the making, and it’s not the last video I’ll have for this drawing. This is animation progress 15, recorded on September 17th, 20th and 27th, 2013.

MATERIALS:
The drawing is called Amazing Realization, and it is an enormous pencil drawing on a 22″ x 30″ sheet of fine heavy bristol drawing paper. In the drawing, I use many 0.3mm mechanical pencils. I use mostly to HB and 2B graphite leads. I occasionally use paper shaders and erasers to blend the pencil, but again, the vast majority of it is hand shaded using a very careful amount of hand pressure.

TECHNIQUES:
Whenever I’m holding the pencil much further back from the tip, I’m allowing the pencil’s own weight to press down on the paper which makes for very soft shading. I am also not a robot drawing robot, so I use erasers. I use the white plastic erasers that work so well with drafting pencils, and the rubber gray kneadable erasers you can form into shapes. I like those for lightening areas which have been filled in too dark, and to keep my pencils from rolling off my drawing desk when I’m not using them. I use a horse hair eraser brush to remove eraser shavings from the drawing without smudging my work. I sometimes use a latex glove on my left hand to keep the oil of my hand from getting on the paper, and for a similar reason, I put a sheet of paper under my drawing hand to keep from smudging parts I’ve already drawn while shading.

THE STORY:
Last year I started a Kickstarter to make prints of my new drawing, Amazing Realization, for people who wanted them. This is quite an epic project which began in mid November 2012 and continues months into 2013. On January 1st 2013 the Kickstarter was successfully funded at over 200% of my goal. Now I’m just working away at finishing the drawing and doing what I can to show the making-of process along the way. The backers get email updates with new photos showing the progress of the drawing the night I work on it, and I release the photo updates of the drawing daily on my Art blog, http://artblog.jeffjag.com, my facebook fan page http://www.facebook.com/jeffjag.art and my twitter feed @jeffjag (all three feature the same daily content). Check out the kickstarter page and watch the video of me announcing the project on that page. http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/112182510/super-detailed-abstract-pencil-art-amazing-realiza

TIME SPENT:
I started this drawing in November 2012 and I’m in the last stretch of drawing in of this video. At the time this video was posted, frames have been captured up through video 17. So there’s a lot left, but it’s getting close. For this video alone (number FIFTEEN), I captured 5,544 frames. Each of these frames was taken between 1 and 10 seconds apart. It varies due to the nature of stop motion and the complexities of drawing with one hand and capturing frames with the other hand. I’ll have a rough estimate by the time I post the final time-lapse project video. Subscribe to my channel and you’ll get it delivered right to you from the friendly YouTube folks.

SOUNDTRACK – “Ultra Jibs” by JeffJag
The soundtrack was created using Moog Animoog and Korg iElectribe apps on iOS. It was mixed in Soundbooth. All composing, recording, sequencing, and mixing was done by myself specifically for this stop motion time-lapse video. The soundtrack is licensed exclusively for this video and is only available in this video since that is it’s exclusive purpose and why I created it in the first place. The track is not available for download or for commercial purchase. (This notice is posted here as proof of my commercial use rights for the song I created just for this video.)

TIME-LAPSE and STOP MOTION
Stop motion and Time-Lapse are used at different intervals during this video. The first two videos in the series were shot at a frame every 5-8 seconds. Later on, I decided to get out my remote shutter release and you can see me holding the button in my left hand as I draw with my right hand. Starting with video 10, I use a wireless shutter release which is super awesome.

WHAT’S WITH THE LATEX GLOVE?
I use a latex glove on my left hand while I draw to keep the oil of my hand from getting on the paper. I place a white sheet of paper under my right hand so I can shade without smudging what I’ve already done. Because I have to move my right hand while drawing, this keeps my hand free to move over areas I may have already drawn without smearing the work.