13 Years manufacturer Rubber shoe cover Wholesale to Afghanistan
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Rubber shoe cover, three dimensional, textured sole for slip resistance, water proof, good resistance against acid and alkali, non-toxic, No stimulating smell. They can be widely used in industry. 4 sizes. Different colors are available. Package: 50 pairs/case.
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Rubber shoe cover, three dimensional, textured sole for slip resistance, water proof, good resistance against acid and alkali, non-toxic, No stimulating smell. They can be widely used in industry. 4 sizes. Different colors are available. Package: 50 pairs/case.
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This is only a How to documentary of what I did. you work on yours totally AT YOUR OWN RISK. Springs are under EXTREME pressure (thousands of pounds), I had to be VERY careful. 1993-2002 same.CAUTION -you can easily lose your fingers, vision, life, etc.. I did not outline all safety procautions here, I did consult all users manuals, because the compressed spring is like a loaded gun. The tool bends and bows under pressure and may instantly slide all to one side, slip off spring, shatter, etc… and take out whatever is in the way. Mine spring tool did slid around once during the procedure and I was careful not to put my fingers anywhere near the compressor — and luckily it popped out away from me. I wore protective gloves, glasses, face shield, proper heavy clothing, fire extinguisher, nothing flammable nearby, etc.. . I’m not responsible for any actions you take or fail to take – this is only a documentary of how I overcame problems changing upper strut mounts on a 4th gen F-body GM car. Your car and results are 100% your own responsibility. there is ONE more all rubber cushion donut that goes between the upper ARM and body to replace too. The spring arms compressor double fingers also were moved to the strut mount top on re-install to further compress the spring in order to get the nut started. I had to keep grease on the tool thread to ensure it turned smoothly. I only use USA made, high quality spring tools. I cleaned up the strut threads with a stiff wire brush and used deep creep penetrating oil on the shaft bolt to remove nut. I had to watch that both ends of the spring were lined up properly in the rubber grooves. I could have also replaced the lower rubber spring seat for even more comfort. The benefit was TREMENDOUS !! The bird drives like a NEW CAR now but it has 170K on the odometer. previous owner 6 years ago had replaced wheel bearings, springs, and strut cartridges, but neglected the strut mount. The old mount “looked okay and intact” but would clank, pop, clunk around when turning, car fished around a little on the road and didn’t feel consistently road centered, ALL a-arm bushings, ball joints, and sway bar links were replaced with MOOG at 150K, but it didn’t completely fix the handling. New strut mounts made it like new now. because the parts references said 93-02 it seems the process is similar for 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002, so I will repeat the same for my 2002 TA. I got my mounts for $18 each on amazon – and $5 ea for the insulator top rubber/steel washer. I will probably get Moog or equivalent for the TA, because these appear okay , but the threaded rear holes BOTH stripped and then the metal grommet broke loose and spun, making it very difficult to remove the stripped bolt on reinstall, I had to get smaller bolts and thread through and put a bolt and nut on end. I was wondering why they sent extra bolts and nuts with the unit…
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[MUSIC PLAYING]
I have been wanting to make this video for a while. There’s any number of cleaners that you can use, but the real key is the green scrubber pad. These types of cleaners, you never want to use this on a fiberglass tub or on porcelain because this has little bits of metal in it, and it actually kind of sands stuff. So you don’t want to use this on anything that it would scratch, leave a bunch of scratches on. You can use just regular dish soap or any other cleaner. You do want to follow it up when you’re finished with some type of stainless steel polish. There’s any number of brands out there, a satin finish or whatever. That’ll make a big difference.
Anyway, one of the most common cleaners, I guess, starts with a four and ends with a nine. You spray it on like this.
[SPRAYING]
So I’m just going to spray it down real good and let it sit for a second. And I’m going to go ahead and put some gloves on. And we can see it’s pretty knarly stained there. Let’s see how this works out. Got my gloves on. Now to use it, it’s just like sandpaper and sand it. And this is called regraining.
Up here a little bit, You can see all these calcium deposits around the air jet of the disposer, dishwasher drain line. So we’re going to just sand all of these off, too.
It doesn’t take a whole lot of pressure, on the sponge just moderate pressure. I’m not going to do this yet because I want to show you the difference between when you do it. So I haven’t sanded the drain yet. So sand around by the faucet– all those gnarly areas. Let’s take a peek down there. See all that in there.
And once you get up all the areas sanded– yeah, I didn’t sand in the drain yet– I just wanted to show you the difference. Maybe at the end of this video I can show a complete before and after photo because I forgot to take a photo of it before, but I guess I can grab a still frame from the video. And it might take you a couple of runs, but it’s worth it if it makes you– it’s beginning to look like new.
I didn’t do the drain yet. I can show you get a good shot of the drain here. And now I’ll go ahead and do it. Now you can see around the ridges, on the inside, all that brown gunk. So you can go ahead and spray it with your chemical, and then take your green scrubber sponge and use moderate pressure. It doesn’t have to be super, super hard, but just hard enough. And just sand it all the way around it.
[SCRUBBING]
There. And now I will go ahead and rinse it out. And you can probably see an improvement already. And rinse the rest of the sink.
There’s a bit of a buildup here and rinse that off. Here now we can use our sponge to clean it all off and move it all down. And it’s in here that we find and can get rid of.
We’ve just removed all the calcium buildup. I can see a lot underneath the faucet, also. And this will work for that also. It may be easier to get in there and come back later with a toothbrush or with a wire brush, but I’m going to do it a little bit, do what I can. Make that at least a little bit better.
It makes it a little more manageable. It’s probably not going to be perfect, but anyway. At least it won’t look quite as bad. You’ve got to pick your battles sometimes, do what you can do. And maybe little by little descale it out, spend some more time, make that better.
I’m going to go grab my rag, but you can already see the whole thing is looking quite a bit better. Still has that white residue here. Got that calcium deposit. I had professional cleaners come in and clean this already. And that’s how dirty it was after they cleaned it. Not everybody knows this trick. Now that you’re watching this video, you’ll know this trick which is pretty simple. It’s hard to even call it a trick, but hey, it is what it is. You can show a difference between start and finish. Yeah, it is what it is.
And it really is about the details.





