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CLEARCOAT APPLICATION
Applying your Clear Top Coat

What You Need:

* Clearcoat (Parts A & B)
* 3/8 Nap Roller & Squeegee
* Threaded Broom handle
* Paint Brush
* Painters Tape
* Spike Shoes
* Latex Protective Gloves
* Paint Stick or Jiffy Mixer

In this application video, you will be learning how to apply both the waterborne clear coat epoxy and the urethane topcoat.

First is the waterborne epoxy clear coat. It is a two component, eco friendly and easy to use thin-mil sealer for your epoxy floor system. This clear coat can be used on your garage floor or in your basement. It’s non-flammable, high gloss, chemical resistant and has no odor. This clear coat is not UV resistant and should not be used outdoors. Directly in the sun, the clear coat will discolor and turn yellow.

Second is the Urethane Clear coat. It is a clear two component polyurethane floor sealer designed for maximum chemical resistance, abrasion resistance and uv-resistance. It is a flammable liquid and should only be used in a well-ventilated area, NEVER should it be used in a basement or confined space. It works great as a long lasting clearcoat for garages, auto service centers and exterior applications such as porches or sidewalks.

The importance of a clear coat is to not only provide chemical and abrasion resistance but also to protect your color chips. Without a clear top coat, your floor will be harder to clean and the chips will become dirty, faded and will wear down over time.

To begin, slowly add the clear coat Part B to the clear coat Part A. Please mix each clear coat according to the mix ratios provided in the individual product instructions. After the two parts are combined; mix well with slow speed mixing equipment such as a jiffy mixer or paint stick until the material is thoroughly mixed and streak free. Improper mixing may result in product failure.

If you are using the waterborne clear coat, its mixed and applied appearance will be milky white and may even look like white paint but it will dry Crystal Clear.

If you are using the urethane clear coat, its mixed and applied appearance will be clear and will dry crystal clear. Urethane is a flammable liquid and produces flammable vapor upon mixing. USE ONLY WITH ADEQUATE VENTILATION. Cross ventilation and using a disposable respirator is a good idea. Please extinguish any source of flame like pilot lights prior to application. Do not smoke around.

Allow the mixed material to stand 30 minutes for induction time. Always re-stir before use. Mixed material is usable for four to six hours.

After the material is thoroughly mixed, use a brush or small roller to cut in along the walls, expansion joints and hard to reach areas.

After you are finished cutting in, apply the clear coat from the container in thin ribbons on top of the basecoat in small sections at a time. Start painting in the corner furthest away from the exit of the room. The preferred and easiest method for applying the clear top coat is to use a serrated squeegee and spread the material out over the surface. If you chose not to use a squeegee; just a roller will suffice. After you have covered the surface area, use a 3/8 nap roller to back roll the clear coat to level out the coverage area. Use a pair of spike shoes or golf cleats to allow you to walk over the wet clear coat. This ensures that the coating has covered all the surface area sufficiently and keeps it from streaking. Please avoid rolling out the clear coat too thick for it can cause possible issues such as white patches or cloudiness.

When applying a topcoat, walk on previously applied chip/basecoat with clean shoes or socks only. Any dirt or debris tracked on to the chips or basecoat will be sealed in by application of clear topcoat. If you come to the end of your floor and you still have clear coat left over, do not use the mixed material to add thickness to the layer you just put down.

If you chose to topcoat this product, you must first be sure that all of the solvents and water have evaporated from the coating during the curing process. Usually you are able to recoat after 14 hours.

You can test this by pressing on the coating with your thumb to verify that no fingerprint impression is left. If no impression is created, then the recoat or topcoat can be started.

The clear coat dries to light foot traffic in 24 hours. You can move heavy items on it in 36-48 hours. Please wait 7 days for full cure before vehicle traffic.

Option Steps:

Surfaces coated with high-gloss epoxy or urethane may become slippery when wet. For additional slip resistance in areas of pedestrian traffic, use a Non-Skid Additive. While painting your Clearcoat; roll forward, lightly sprinkle non-skid grit; then back roll over it once again. Be sure not to apply non-skid in a high-concentration. Sprinkle at 1 can per 500+ square feet.

Video tutorial on how to diagnose and repair the blend door actuator on a Ford Ranger. The two main issues with a failing blend door actuator is when you adjust the interior temperature on the hvac control panel, you will either hear a clicking sound or the temperature will be stuck on either hot, cold, or won’t adjust the cabin temperature. If you catch the issue in the right time, then it is repairable and you don’t need to buy a replacement actuator. This particular vehicle I am working with is a 1998 Ford Ranger, but a similar procedure may also apply to Mazda B series models as well.

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-grease
-cloth
-contact cleaner
-blend door actuator
-gear replacement
-multimeter
-standard/flat screwdriver

Procedure:
-as mentioned above the two main issues is you will either hear a clicking sound in the dash when adjusting the temperature or the temperature can’t be adjusted
-it is located behind the glove box
-remove the contents of the glove box, then bend the sides in and pull down
-this will expose the main duct and the blend door actuator is either a white or black box, this will depend if it’s been replaced before or not and is located on the top
-remove the electrical connector, simply depress the tab and pull out
-the electrical connector can be both back probed using a multimeter when in place or disconnected to test the controller circuit
-wiring may vary between the years so check a wiring diagram specific to your vehicle
-the pinout diagram will say which pin location connects to what part of the circuit
-turn the ignition in the run position
-using a multimeter on the lowest DC voltage setting, check to ensure if there is power at the circuit, along with a sufficient ground
-now setting the multimeter to the lowest ohms setting, we will measure the resistance of the potentiometer in the hvac control panel
-values will vary depending on what your cabin temperature is set at
-if it fails any parts of the test, then there is an issue with the hvac control panel or the wiring
-we can simply remove the actuator and inspect if it’s functioning correctly
-to remove it, simply depress the two tabs on the front and use a standard screwdriver to pop it up
-use the assistance of a standard screwdriver to disconnect the actuator
-another issue is that the shaft can break, either on the unit or on the door within the duct
-if the door has broken within the duct, then the duct will need to be disassembled for replacement
-plug the actuator back into the electrical connector, turn the ignition in the run position and test
-rotate the air temperature control and watch to see if the shaft rotates
-it doesn’t have a large amount of movement and won’t move fast either
-using a smaller standard screwdriver, slowly pop the tabs around the outside
-try to hold it apart so it doesn’t clip closed again
-remove the cap and then everything will be exposed inside
-wipe off any old lubricant
-I used a paint marker just to align the gears to make it easier for reassembly
-then remove the gears and continue to clean off the old lubricant
-inspect gears for any damage
-the small gear driven by the motor, I have seen a replacement on Ebay if yours needs to be replaced and it’s much cheaper than buying a new replacement unit
-clean the potentiometer with electronic contact clean and a clean rag
-do not contaminate this area with any oil or grease and inspect for any damage
-ensure the contacts on the shaft gear which run against the potentiometer is cleaner and make sure they ride correctly on the swipe area
-apply lithium grease to the gears and shafts they ride on
-reassemble the gears, lining everything back up and ensure the case is snapped back together
-test to make sure it is working correctly
-for reinstalling the actuator back onto the duct, if you have moved it, then that’s not an issue
-connect the electrical connector, turn the ignition on and then slowly rotate temperature selector, eventually the actuator will fall into it’s slot, then snap the unit back into place
-test again
-push the glovebox back into place by pulling in the sides again

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