27 Years Factory 26″ Industrial rubber glove-Granule finish to Dominica Factory

FAQ Content

Video tutorial on how to diagnose and repair the blend door actuator on a Ford Ranger. The two main issues with a failing blend door actuator is when you adjust the interior temperature on the hvac control panel, you will either hear a clicking sound or the temperature will be stuck on either hot, cold, or won’t adjust the cabin temperature. If you catch the issue in the right time, then it is repairable and you don’t need to buy a replacement actuator. This particular vehicle I am working with is a 1998 Ford Ranger, but a similar procedure may also apply to Mazda B series models as well.

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-grease
-cloth
-contact cleaner
-blend door actuator
-gear replacement
-multimeter
-standard/flat screwdriver

Procedure:
-as mentioned above the two main issues is you will either hear a clicking sound in the dash when adjusting the temperature or the temperature can’t be adjusted
-it is located behind the glove box
-remove the contents of the glove box, then bend the sides in and pull down
-this will expose the main duct and the blend door actuator is either a white or black box, this will depend if it’s been replaced before or not and is located on the top
-remove the electrical connector, simply depress the tab and pull out
-the electrical connector can be both back probed using a multimeter when in place or disconnected to test the controller circuit
-wiring may vary between the years so check a wiring diagram specific to your vehicle
-the pinout diagram will say which pin location connects to what part of the circuit
-turn the ignition in the run position
-using a multimeter on the lowest DC voltage setting, check to ensure if there is power at the circuit, along with a sufficient ground
-now setting the multimeter to the lowest ohms setting, we will measure the resistance of the potentiometer in the hvac control panel
-values will vary depending on what your cabin temperature is set at
-if it fails any parts of the test, then there is an issue with the hvac control panel or the wiring
-we can simply remove the actuator and inspect if it’s functioning correctly
-to remove it, simply depress the two tabs on the front and use a standard screwdriver to pop it up
-use the assistance of a standard screwdriver to disconnect the actuator
-another issue is that the shaft can break, either on the unit or on the door within the duct
-if the door has broken within the duct, then the duct will need to be disassembled for replacement
-plug the actuator back into the electrical connector, turn the ignition in the run position and test
-rotate the air temperature control and watch to see if the shaft rotates
-it doesn’t have a large amount of movement and won’t move fast either
-using a smaller standard screwdriver, slowly pop the tabs around the outside
-try to hold it apart so it doesn’t clip closed again
-remove the cap and then everything will be exposed inside
-wipe off any old lubricant
-I used a paint marker just to align the gears to make it easier for reassembly
-then remove the gears and continue to clean off the old lubricant
-inspect gears for any damage
-the small gear driven by the motor, I have seen a replacement on Ebay if yours needs to be replaced and it’s much cheaper than buying a new replacement unit
-clean the potentiometer with electronic contact clean and a clean rag
-do not contaminate this area with any oil or grease and inspect for any damage
-ensure the contacts on the shaft gear which run against the potentiometer is cleaner and make sure they ride correctly on the swipe area
-apply lithium grease to the gears and shafts they ride on
-reassemble the gears, lining everything back up and ensure the case is snapped back together
-test to make sure it is working correctly
-for reinstalling the actuator back onto the duct, if you have moved it, then that’s not an issue
-connect the electrical connector, turn the ignition on and then slowly rotate temperature selector, eventually the actuator will fall into it’s slot, then snap the unit back into place
-test again
-push the glovebox back into place by pulling in the sides again

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The later part of the 20th century saw lots of refactoring Pizzighelli’s formulas from the 1880s and early 1890s for printing out platinum. Whereas palladium is pretty genial and prints out fairly easily, platinum is reluctant. One fellow announced back in the 1980s a platinum print out process that by his own acknowledgment really needed a little palladium (and a lot of hydration) to print out.

My ammonium ferric ferrous oxalate makes it possible to print out platinum, stone dry, with no palladium.

For over 140 years printers have tried and failed to do what I demo in this brief video. No mess, no fuss, just mix up the sensitizer and brush it on the dry paper. As with every single demo I have ever made, live or for the camera, I ended up printing the image a bit too light. Maybe it’s the sunglasses! Also, I am well aware that was not the model’s thigh.

Formula:
You want to use about 50% more platinum chloride than you would for any given print (artcraftchemicals.com). More solution means stronger Dmax. Some images need very strong Dmax, some don’t. In this video, I used one extra drop (than I would use of gold or palladium) of the 20% platinum. So, 3 drops 20% potassium platinum chloride. I froze the platinum, thawed it, refroze and rethawed it. Then I added 3 drops 99.9% glycerin (which you can buy almost anywhere). Then 1 drop of 26% ferric oxalate for a contrast boost. Feel free to use ammonium dichromate. Wear big red rubber gloves, a rubber apron, and a splash mask, just in case. Finally, add to all this 3 drops of 40% ammonium ferric-ferrous oxalate prepared with 8 drops of 2% vitamin C.

Prepare the AFFO for this formula by preparing 10 ml of 40% ammonium ferric oxalate. Pour the ammonium ferric oxalate into a bottle. Now add 8 drops of 2% ascorbic acid to the ammonium ferric oxalate. Cap and shake the bottle well for 10 or 15 seconds and you have 10 ml of 40% ammonium ferric-ferrous oxalate.

After you brush the sensitizer onto a sheet of paper suitable for platinum, let it dry totally, completely. Glycerin takes forever to dry — expect an 8×10 to take around 30 to 45 minutes at low RH (~30%) and 75 to 90 minutes at around 70% RH. Print out in sunlight is much faster than a UV box and generally, in my experience, more accurate. Probably because I don’t have so long to waffle on whether the print is ready or not…

Questions? Email richardepuckett@texaschrysotype.com. Visit richardpuckett.tumblr.com (especially for my work with rhodium), www.texaschrysotype.com for sample prints and flickr.com/chrysotypes/. Also see my other videos: gold, platinum-gold, and dry print out palladium.