28 Years Factory 24″ rubber glove – cotton linning-rough finish to Jamaica Manufacturers

FAQ Content

TOOL DEFINITIONS: DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted part which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.

WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, ”What the…??”

ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age.

SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.

PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.

BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.

HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.

VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.

OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of.

TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.

HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.

EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle.

E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any possible future use.

BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.

TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.

CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A very large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle. This was a time before pry bars.

AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.

PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.

STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws.

PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.

HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. Also to open the end of a finger or thumb (blowout) thereby causing a lot of blood cleanup on walls, floors, etc.

MECHANIC’S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front d oor; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while wearing them.

DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling ”DAMMIT” at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.

An easy beginner video on Creating a two part mold by Jon Neill http://www.jonneill.com – from creating a clay lay up to making both mold sections and a resin casting.

The video shows how to fix common situations such as silicone bleeding when they occur. Materials used are sold on http://www.hobbysilicone.com which are used by hollywood fx professionals.

The materials used for this project are:

a 2 lb kit of 2125 Moldmaster Silicone and catalyst

**the amount you buy will depend on the size of your sculpture, please have the dimensions of your sculpture ready to give to the people at Hobby Silicone. -White Clay, water based clay ( art supply store or Aardvark Clay)
-Wood Board, at least 1/2” thick, larger than the size of your sculpt. (Home Depot)
- Sharpie Marker
- small cup
- tongue depressors ( wide popsicle sticks)
-Flat paint brush, cheap craft brush (art supply store)
-Latex Gloves (Home depot or Costco)
-1/2” Chip brushes (Home Depot)
-Foam Core or piece of cardboard (Art supply store)
-X-acto Knife (Art Supply Store)
-Mixing container
-small plastic buckets (Home Depot)
-paint stir sticks

If you plan on making molds in the future, consider investing in a good gram scale, one that can weigh over 4000 grams and in 1 gram increments.

Watch my other videos for other interesting information:
The amazing one piece mold http://youtu.be/J5cOGyT-ABI

EASY! How to MOLD an action figure head & CAST in resin http://youtu.be/6UccpZP9-_I

How to sculpt tiny heads

How to sculpt a Cosplay Helmet in Hyperspeed!

Want to see some crazy pumpkin sculpting? Right, it’s not Halloween but you’ll probably enjoy it anyway!