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FAQ Content

Video tutorial on how to easily strip the paint or clear coat off a set of wheels. Obviously there are various methods that can be used but not everyone owns or has access to the equipment needed. This is an at home method which can be done in the comforts of your own driveway. If you are refinishing your wheels and they currently have peeling issues in the currently coating or extreme corrosion then is it import to remove the existing coating in order to have a good base to work with and ensure a long life for the new finish. If you are polishing aluminum wheels, this method can also be used as well. These particular wheels I am working with are from a Jeep Wrangler, Canyon style with both a machine aluminum surface with clear coat and paint.

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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-putty knife or plastic scrapper
-brass wire brush
-wheels
-rubber gloves (used in the video is Permatex Black 5 mil Nitrile Disposable Gloves #08184)
-paint stripper (used in the video is Permatex Paint Stripper #80577)
-wheel cleaner
-brush
-safety glasses
-respirator
-water hose

Procedure:
-first start by washing the wheels with a wheel based cleaner to remove any brake dust, road debris, etc.
-give them a good scrub down using a brush.
-allow them to dry as we will be using a paint stripper
-if there is any water residue, this will neutralize the paint stripper
-mix the paint stripper accordingly
-work in a well ventilated area, wear rubber gloves, safety glasses, and a respirator
-spray on the paint stripper
-apply a thin or thick coat, which ever is needed
-it takes about 10 minutes for the paint to peal up, you will notice the coating bubble/lift during this period
-once done, you can use a metal putty knife to remove the coating, but I picked up a plastic scraper just to reduce the risk of scratching the aluminum finish
-for those harder to reach areas, I also have a brass wire brush which won’t damage the aluminum either
-do not use a metal wire brush as they are coarser and you do have to worry about metal getting impregnated in the aluminum surface which will cause the particles to rust
-a second coat may need to be applied if you are working with a stronger paint
-dispose of the old paint properly
-then wash the wheel down to neutralize the stripper

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© 4DIYers 2013
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No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.

CLEARCOAT APPLICATION
Applying your Clear Top Coat

What You Need:

* Clearcoat (Parts A & B)
* 3/8 Nap Roller & Squeegee
* Threaded Broom handle
* Paint Brush
* Painters Tape
* Spike Shoes
* Latex Protective Gloves
* Paint Stick or Jiffy Mixer

In this application video, you will be learning how to apply both the waterborne clear coat epoxy and the urethane topcoat.

First is the waterborne epoxy clear coat. It is a two component, eco friendly and easy to use thin-mil sealer for your epoxy floor system. This clear coat can be used on your garage floor or in your basement. It’s non-flammable, high gloss, chemical resistant and has no odor. This clear coat is not UV resistant and should not be used outdoors. Directly in the sun, the clear coat will discolor and turn yellow.

Second is the Urethane Clear coat. It is a clear two component polyurethane floor sealer designed for maximum chemical resistance, abrasion resistance and uv-resistance. It is a flammable liquid and should only be used in a well-ventilated area, NEVER should it be used in a basement or confined space. It works great as a long lasting clearcoat for garages, auto service centers and exterior applications such as porches or sidewalks.

The importance of a clear coat is to not only provide chemical and abrasion resistance but also to protect your color chips. Without a clear top coat, your floor will be harder to clean and the chips will become dirty, faded and will wear down over time.

To begin, slowly add the clear coat Part B to the clear coat Part A. Please mix each clear coat according to the mix ratios provided in the individual product instructions. After the two parts are combined; mix well with slow speed mixing equipment such as a jiffy mixer or paint stick until the material is thoroughly mixed and streak free. Improper mixing may result in product failure.

If you are using the waterborne clear coat, its mixed and applied appearance will be milky white and may even look like white paint but it will dry Crystal Clear.

If you are using the urethane clear coat, its mixed and applied appearance will be clear and will dry crystal clear. Urethane is a flammable liquid and produces flammable vapor upon mixing. USE ONLY WITH ADEQUATE VENTILATION. Cross ventilation and using a disposable respirator is a good idea. Please extinguish any source of flame like pilot lights prior to application. Do not smoke around.

Allow the mixed material to stand 30 minutes for induction time. Always re-stir before use. Mixed material is usable for four to six hours.

After the material is thoroughly mixed, use a brush or small roller to cut in along the walls, expansion joints and hard to reach areas.

After you are finished cutting in, apply the clear coat from the container in thin ribbons on top of the basecoat in small sections at a time. Start painting in the corner furthest away from the exit of the room. The preferred and easiest method for applying the clear top coat is to use a serrated squeegee and spread the material out over the surface. If you chose not to use a squeegee; just a roller will suffice. After you have covered the surface area, use a 3/8 nap roller to back roll the clear coat to level out the coverage area. Use a pair of spike shoes or golf cleats to allow you to walk over the wet clear coat. This ensures that the coating has covered all the surface area sufficiently and keeps it from streaking. Please avoid rolling out the clear coat too thick for it can cause possible issues such as white patches or cloudiness.

When applying a topcoat, walk on previously applied chip/basecoat with clean shoes or socks only. Any dirt or debris tracked on to the chips or basecoat will be sealed in by application of clear topcoat. If you come to the end of your floor and you still have clear coat left over, do not use the mixed material to add thickness to the layer you just put down.

If you chose to topcoat this product, you must first be sure that all of the solvents and water have evaporated from the coating during the curing process. Usually you are able to recoat after 14 hours.

You can test this by pressing on the coating with your thumb to verify that no fingerprint impression is left. If no impression is created, then the recoat or topcoat can be started.

The clear coat dries to light foot traffic in 24 hours. You can move heavy items on it in 36-48 hours. Please wait 7 days for full cure before vehicle traffic.

Option Steps:

Surfaces coated with high-gloss epoxy or urethane may become slippery when wet. For additional slip resistance in areas of pedestrian traffic, use a Non-Skid Additive. While painting your Clearcoat; roll forward, lightly sprinkle non-skid grit; then back roll over it once again. Be sure not to apply non-skid in a high-concentration. Sprinkle at 1 can per 500+ square feet.