Factory wholesale price for 32″ rubber glove with cotton linning-rough finish to Rotterdam Manufacturers
Heavy duty rubber glove, made of 100% natural latex. 32” length(82cm), rough finish, seamless, cotton lining, ambidextrous style (fits either hand), 800g/pair, 50pairs/case. Using for Isolater, dry box, blast cabinet, etc.
Our team through professional training. Skilled professional knowledge, strong sense of service, to meet the service needs of customers Factory wholesale price for 32″ rubber glove with cotton linning-rough finish to Rotterdam Manufacturers, If you are interested in any of our products or would like to discuss a custom order, please feel free to contact us. We are looking forward to forming successful business relationships with new clients around the world in the near future.
Heavy duty rubber glove, made of 100% natural latex.
32” length(82cm), rough finish, seamless, cotton lining, ambidextrous style (fits either hand), 800g/pair, 50pairs/case. Using for Isolater, dry box, blast cabinet, etc.
http://www.OrthoticShop.com/lamo-mens-scuff-slippers-top quality-genuine-sheepskin.html – RubberScuff in suede, lined with top quality quality Australian sheepskin. Slip resistant higher density indoor/out of doors rubber sole.
This video from Sears PartsDirect shows how to replace a broken clutch assembly in a direct-drive washer. The clutch releases the brake in the drive system to allow the basket to spin when the washer is in spin mode. The clutch band creates friction between the clutch hub and the clutch lining, causing the entire clutch assembly to rotate and release the brake. If the clutch lining is worn out, the clutch assembly will not rotate properly to release the brake. If the washer spins when the washer basket is empty but not when it’s full, check the clutch assembly. If it’s begining to turn blue, it will likely need to be replaced. This repair will work for direct-drive washers made by Kenmore, Whirlpool and Maytag.
Visit us at http://www.searspartsdirect.com?sid=soc:youtube:how-to-replace-a-direct-drive-washer-clutch-assembly
Or call 1-800-437-1673 to speak with a parts specialist.
The video includes these parts. Look up your model to make sure you get the right parts for your washer.
Find parts for your washer at:
Or click here to schedule an appointment with a repair technician. https://www.searshomeservices.com/repair#showall
Unplug the power cord from the wall outlet. Turn off the water supply valves for the washer. Open the washer lid and pry the cap from the top of the agitator. Remove the 7/16″ bolt and washer that secure the agitator to the agitator drive shaft. Grip the bottom of the agitator and pull the entire agitator assembly up and out of the washer. Pull the drain hose out of the standpipe behind the washer. Move the washer away from the wall so you can reach the fill hoses. Mark which fill hose goes to the hot connector and which goes to the cold. Using channel-lock pliers, carefully loosen and remove both fill hoses. Expect some water to pour out. Tip: Wipe up water spills with a towel to prevent slipping. Carefully tip the washer backwards to access the drive components at the bottom of the washer. Use a slot screwdriver to release the metal mounting clips that secure the drain pump to the front of the drive motor. Pull the drain pump forward and release it from the drive motor shaft, leave the hoses connected to the drain pump. Unplug the wire harness from the drive motor. Detach the wires from the drive motor capacitor. Release the drive motor wire harness from the plastic retainer clip on the bottom of the transmission housing. Remove the bolts that secure the transmission to the base of the washer. Carefully pull the transmission (with drive motor attached) straight out of the bottom of the washer. Set the transmission and drive motor assembly upright to service the clutch assembly. Pull the thrust washer off of the transmission shaft. Using needle-nosed pliers, pull the clutch support ring off of the top of the clutch assembly. Using a slot screwdriver, pry the clutch retainer ring off of the top of the clutch assembly. Slide the clutch assembly up and off the transmission shaft. Pry the C-clip off of the brake cam. Pull the brake cam off of the base of the washer. Position the new brake cam on the base of the washer and reinstall the C-clip. Insert the isolator ring into the new clutch housing. Slide the new clutch housing onto the transmission shaft. Install the retainer ring on the top of the new clutch housing. Reinstall the support ring on the top of the new clutch housing. Reinstall the thrust washer on top of the new clutch housing. Carefully slide the transmission and motor assembly back into the base of the washer. Adjust the alignment of the clutch as necessary so that the transmission is flush with the base of the washer and the mounting holes are lined up. Reinstall the mounting bolts in the transmission. Reconnect the wire harness plug on the drive motor. Reattach the wires to the drive motor capacitor. Reinstall the wire harness in the plastic retainer clip at the bottom of the transmission. Reposition the drain pump on the drive motor shaft and secure the drain pump with the retainer clips. Carefully tilt the washer back to the upright position. Connect the drain hoses and properly tighten the connections using channel-lock pliers. Slide the agitator onto the agitator drive shaft. Insert the agitator bolt and the washer. Tighten the agitator bolt firmly. Snap the agitator cap onto the top of the agitator assembly. Put the drain hose back in place, and turn on the water supply valves. Tighten the connection if you find a slight leak. Plug the washer into the electrical outlet. Return the washer to its original location.