Hot new products Rubber glove household L supply for Comoros

Short Description:

Sanitation glove, made of 100% natrual latex, length 32-36cm, textured palm for anti-slip, waterproof, anti acid and alkali, non-toxic. Mainly used for food processing, hotels, family kitchen, etc. Color: red, yellow, orange, rose, nude, etc.


Product Detail

FAQ

Product Tags

we can offer high quality products, competitive price and best customer service. Our destination is "You come here with difficulty and we give you a smile to take away".
Hot new products Rubber glove household L supply for Comoros, We welcome customers, business associations and friends from all parts of the world to contact us and seek cooperation for mutual benefits.


Sanitation glove, made of 100% natrual latex, length 32-36cm, textured palm for anti-slip, waterproof, anti acid and alkali, non-toxic.

Mainly used for food processing, hotels, family kitchen, etc. Color: red, yellow, orange, rose, nude, etc.

  • Previous:
  • Next:
  • FAQ Content




  • Hey all of my beautiful viewers!!

    I talk fast so that you learn quick! This awesome quote was brought yo you by a good friend of mine, Alvaro Tobar, who also goes by Nyne D. This guy makes awesome music and he truly has a way with words. You can find him on:
    • Website: http://nyne-d.com/
    • Youtube: http://www.youtube.com/user/nynedmusic
    • Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/NyneD?fref=ts
    • Soundcloud: https://soundcloud.com/nyned
    • Instagram & Twitter: Nyne_D
    Make sure to go show him some love and tell him that i sent you :D

    Tutorial:
    You want to start off by parting your hair. In this case I will be creating a Faux Undercut using the cornows so I am giving myself a side oart and then bringing down another about two inches from my hairline. Then to make the cornrowing process a lot easier you want to put up the rest of the hair so that it is out of the way. Then using the remaining section, you want to figure out how you will be dividing it up. In this case, I will be taking sections that are about an inch wide. Once you have this sectioned off you want to secure the hair that you will not be using to get it out of the way once again.
    So now that everything has been sectioned off, we are ready to bigin french braiding. You want to take a small section of hair and then divide that into three equal sections. Then you want to take one of the outer sections and place that over the middle section. Next, you want to do the same thing to the other side. I am going to repeat this once more to create a bit more of definition and now we are ready to start adding hair. So I am going to take a small amount of hair and add it to the outer section and then place that little bundle over the middle section. You are going to continue this process until you run out of hair. As you can see cornrows are just basically little tiny french braids. In this case, I decided to use the french braiding technique to create my cornrows but you can also use reverse french braids, also known as dutch braids, to achieve a slightly different look. I have a video on how to do this that I will link somewhere in the screen and also here:

    Cornrow your own hair using Dutch Braids:

    Alright, so now for some tips that will not only make the cornrowing process a lot easier but that will also make your cornrows look a lot nicer
    • Tip #1:
    Use either water or some sort of hair styling product prior to making each individual french braid. This is going to make it so that you have more control while braiding and it also makes it easier to keep all of the little baby hairs under control
    •Tip #2:
    Keep the cornrows as tight and as neat as possible. This is not only going to make them look a lot nicer, but is also going to make them last a lot longer as well.
    •Tip #3:
    Continue to braid about an ich or so after you are done french braiding. this is going to make it easier to secure it in place with the little rubber bands and it is also going to keep your french braids from becoming undone.
    •Tip#4:
    Tilt your head more and more as you move from cornrow to cornrow. This makes it a lot easier to french braid.

    I absolutely love love love cornrows because they look super cute, keep your hair out of the way, and also last a really long time. I can usually get away with wearing mine for about a week or two. What is great is that you can still wash your hair, sleep with them, and not have to worry about them becoming undone; they are super low maintenance. They are also great for those of us who do not have too much time to get ready in the morning and for those of us who do not get our hair done as often as you should. The cornrows do a great job of creating a transition between your natural hair color and the hair that has been treated!



    Learn how to build an outdoor patio bar with an acid stained concrete top. In part 1 Pete will show you how to build a concrete bar top mold, pour concrete, create a trowel finish, and seal a concrete bar top. For the complete and free bar plans go to

    For more info, project photos, and downloadable plans check out:

    http://www.diypete.com/patiotable

    Download Plans: https://gumroad.com/l/patiobar

    *Note that these are affiliate links, meaning that when you buy something that is recommended below, it helps support the Channel. Thanks in advance!

    *Tools Needed
    Power Drill – http://amzn.to/1OxMfnt
    Orbital Sander – http://amzn.to/1VUVNYy
    Circular Saw – http://amzn.to/1OxNa7k
    Table Saw (optional) – http://amzn.to/1X7Eje5
    12″ Miter Saw (optional) – http://amzn.to/1VUVo8s
    Jig Saw – http://amzn.to/1ZGFCTf
    Bolt Cutter – http://amzn.to/1OxNcfe
    Concrete Trowel – http://amzn.to/1LwkIAe

    Measure and then cut the Melamine wood to size using a circular saw. Use a jig saw if needed to cut hard to reach areas. Cut the sidewalls for the concrete bar mold using a table saw or circular saw. I cut mine to 3 3/4 inches wide. This gave me a nice bold looking concrete top that was a total of 3 inches thick. The extra 3/4 of an inch is to compensate for the base of the mold.

    Layout the sidewalls of the mold to make sure everything fits correctly. Attach the sidewalls to the base using 1 1/2 inch drywall screws. Pre-drill prior to inserting the screw.

    Use a knife to cut 1 1/2 inch thick foam for the knockout in your mold. It will be slightly smaller than the mold. There is a 1 inch channel around the entire perimeter between the foam and the sidewalls. This will allow concrete to form around the foam and to create a lip. Your concrete counter will look like it is 3 inches thick throughout. However, it will only be 1 1/2 inches thick where the foam is placed. Thus, you’ll reduce the weight of the countertop dramatically and will not have to purchase as much concrete.

    The foam I used had a metallic backing. Please note that any foam will work. I bought smaller project sized pieces and then used packing tape to piece them together. I also sealed all the edges of the foam with clear packing tape so the foam would release from the concrete easily.

    Cut re-enforcement for the concrete down to size. It typically comes in 4×8 sheets at Home Depot. Seal the joints in your mold with 100% silicon caulk. Use silicon to adhere the foam to the base of the mold as well. Let the silicon dry before adding the concrete.

    Mix up your concrete 1 bag at a time. I’d recommend using Quikrete Counter Top mix. If you can’t find countertop mix, Quikrete 5000 will work. The countertop mix consists of finer aggregate and is much easier to create a perfect hard trowel finish with. Mix the concrete with a hoe or a shovel. Add water until it is about a cookie dough type consistency.

    Add the concrete to the mold. Use a shovel, bucket, or your hands to pack it into the counter top mold. Use your hands and fingers to pack the concrete into all areas of the mold. Make sure to wear rubber gloves whenever handling concrete. Fill the mold half full with concrete. Then place the re-enforcement in the concrete. Make sure it is as flat as possible. Then continue adding concrete until the mold is full.

    Screed the concrete using a 2×4. Simply move the 2×4 in a saw-like motion back and forth. This will level out the concrete. Fill in low spots as needed and screed from one side to another until the concrete in the mold is as level as possible. Use a trowel to smooth the concrete for the first time. If you have a float, you can use it to help bring more “cream” to the surface which helps make the hard troweling process a bit easier.

    This is one of the most important steps. I like to compare it to watching the grill so you get a perfect medium rare steak for dinner. Except with this, it takes a lot longer and you don’t get to eat a steak. Anyhow, let the concrete firm up for a few hours and check it every half hour because curing time will depend on temperature, humidity, the amount of water used, and the concrete mix. Use a finger to test the firmness. If it leaves a small dimple and you don’t get any water or concrete on your finger it is ready to remove the sidewalls and trowel.

    Slowly remove the sidewalls. If the concrete sags make sure to put the sidewalls back on and to wait longer. Once the sidewalls are off you can smooth out the edges and fill any bugholes with extra concrete…
    —-
    Looking for more DIY videos? Be sure to check out our channel and subscribe for updates! We post a weekly tutorial every Thursday.

    Looking for woodworking, concrete working, and other DIY projects plans to follow? You can download plans for free at http://gumroad.com/DIYPETE

    Facebook: http://facebook.com/DiyProjectsWithPete
    Instagram: http://instagram.com/diypete

    Pete Sveen
    1627 W Main Street Suite 182
    Bozeman, Montana 59715

    Send your message to us:

    INQUIRY NOW
    • * CAPTCHA: Please select the Flag

    Related Products

    INQUIRY NOW
    • * CAPTCHA: Please select the Star