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The complete process of how to build a concrete table without any specialty tools. It’s an affordable way to make high end and beautiful furniture. For the complete tutorial and materials list check out DIYPETE.com. Please note that

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The buffet table I made is 17″wide by 52″ long by 1.5″ thick. Here is a diagram showing how I made the mold.

Cut the bottom of the mold out of melamine using a circular saw
This piece should be the exact width and length you’d like the concrete table to be.

Cut the strips that will border the bottom piece
If you want a 1.5″ thick concrete slab, add 3/4″ to the strips so they are 2.25″ tall. This accommodates for the bottom of the mold.

Assemble the sides of the mold.
Attach using 1 5/8 inch black drywall screws about every 8-12 inches. Drill a pilot hole to help it go in easier. Make sure to drill in from the side as evenly as possible.

Complete the mold
Once assembled, the mold will look like the photo below. You will now have a structure which concrete can be poured in. Note — the actual top of your concrete table will be very smooth because it will cure against the smooth and flat melamine surfaces. The part that you screed and trowel later on will actually be the bottom side. You will flip the mold once the project has cured.

Caulk the creases in your mold.
In the video I use a squeeze tube of 100% silicon caulk. You can also use a caulk gun. Then run a caulk tool to smooth it out. You can also use painters tape to get an even caulk line as pictured below.

Cut Re-enforcement
Once the caulk has cured, go ahead and cut the re-enforcement to size using a bolt cutter. If your table is 52″ long by 17″ in width, cut the metal wiring to about 50″ by 15″. It will leave about an inch of play on each side. Then use rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to thoroughly clean the mold, making sure all sawdust and particles are out of the mold.

It’s time to mix up the concrete. Follow the directs on the bag to see how much water they recommend adding. I like to pour some water into the tub prior to the concrete to minimize dust. Wear a dust mask for this process because the particles are not good to breathe. Mix 1 or 2 bags of concrete at a time. To stir up the concrete use a small shovel or garden hoe. I like to mix it to a peanut butter consistency.

Pack Concrete
Take a handful of concrete (wearing your rubber gloves of course), and start packing the concrete into the mold. *Don’t forget to make sure your work table is as level as possible prior to packing the concrete.

Add Re-enforcement
Once the mold is filled up a little more than half way you’ll want to add the re-enforcement. Simply put the re-enforcement in place and then finish packing the rest of the mold with concrete.

Fill and screed
Fill the mold with concrete until it is full. Take an old 2×4 or straight piece of wood and screed off the excess to level out the concrete. Move the 2×4 in a sawing motion. Continue back and forth across the entire mold (multiple times) and fill in any low spots with extra concrete. Check that your work table is still level. You can always shim if needed.

Remove concrete from the mold
Remove all the drywall screws. Next, take a chisel and slowly pry the wood side away from the concrete. Make sure not to let the chisel (or flathead screwdriver ) touch the concrete.

Flip the concrete and remove top of mold
Slowly flip the concrete. It helps to have two people. I like to take a few shop rags or foam to put under the concrete so when it is flipped vertically there is something for it to rest softly on. Continue flipping the piece and rest it on a few spare boards. Resting it on boards that are evenly spaced will allow the piece to dry thoroughly.

Sand concrete
Use an orbital sander to smooth the piece. You will expose a few more bug holes but that is okay. Run the sander on the sides and corners as well. The top edges will be pretty rough. You’ll fill in the rough area with portland cement after this process.

Apply Sealer
Use a clean rag and get any remaining dust off the concrete. Next, find a new rag and use it to apply a stone or concrete sealer. These can be found at a local hardware store. Read the instructions to find out the best way to apply the sealer. Once the sealer drys I like to wax the piece.
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Pete Sveen
1627 W Main Street Suite 182
Bozeman, Montana 59715

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auto cabin air filters

Low air flow restriction
Adhesive forms pocket pleat for the filter
Urethane soft sealing gasket
Mesh support screening
Pleated paper filters

auto cabin air filters

Wix Cabin Air Filters are designed to circulate clean air inside the cabin. They filter the contaminants down to microscopic size and provide a linear path for low air restriction. auto cabin air filters are pleated paper filters and are placed in the outside air intake of the vehicle’s passenger compartment.

auto cabin air filters

this is one of the easiest things you can replace in your car. my honda civic at its regular oil change, the dealer informed me @ xxxxx miles you should replace the cabin air filter. when i asked how much, they told me it was going to be around $120. i refused recalling that i saw a very simple DIY on [...] and so my plan to save $100 dollars began.

you take out your glove compartment box, by squeezing the ends of the sides and move the glove box towards you and the auto cabin air filters box should be exposed. remove the cabin air filter from the car, take out the air filter and put in your new and clean wix filter you bought at amazon. now you simply put eveything back the way it was and you’re done! simple enough right?

the quality of this filter imo is good, it feels like the OEM filter from honda. so far i have no problems. my last words for this review is to spray the filter with febreeeze or put dryer sheets around the filter (tight squeeze) so whenever you turn on your a/c it smells like a fresh scent. i put dryer sheets in mine so my car smells like fresh laundry when the a/c is on

auto cabin air filters

I’m embarrassed to say that I did not even know my Honda Civic had an air filter for the cabin. My BMW and Audi in the past had them, but I just assumed that the inexpensive Honda did not have anything. When I went to buy an engine air filter on Amazon, I thought it was a joke that they were pairing the item with a cabin air filter. Well, no joke, the Honda Civic has a cabin filter and it’s hidden away in a little drawer tucked behind the glove box. It was very easy to replace, once I knew that it was in there. You just open your glove box, push in the sides a little bit so the stoppers will let it swing all the way down, and then you will see the black face of the drawer for the filter behind. It just slides right out, swap out the new filter for the dirty one, and slide it back in. The only thing to watch for is to make sure the arrows showing the flow of air are lined up together. The drawer in the Honda had the arrow for airflow pointing downward, so I made sure the arrow on the side of the air filter was also pointing downward when I installed it.

That’s it. Ten minute job at most, even if you take time to explore around behind your glovebox.

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