Top Suppliers 14″ rubber glove with cotton linning-rough finish to Spain Importers

FAQ Content

Rubber gloves may be one of the most important pieces of protective gear in an electric line worker’s toolbox.

The gloves protect them as they make repairs or upgrade high-voltage power lines.

PG&E doesn’t leave it to chance that the gloves are manufactured without defects. A team of three lab workers tests every piece of the company’s personal protective equipment — rubber gloves, rubber blankets, line hose, jumpers and hoods.

A very small number of the gloves tested each month are rejected. Still, it’s critical that the products meet the highest safety standards. In all, the team tests as many as 84,000 pieces of protective gear every year.

“You have to have a lot of faith in these products,” said Clint Paxton, a PG&E insulation test lab supervisor. “When you reach out and grab 21,000 volts, you’ve got to know that you’ve got a quality product in your hand.”

The testing happens in a warehouse at the Emeryville Repair Facility, where employees recently celebrated the facility’s 90th anniversary. The team includes Andre Ladrech, Dave Williams and Don Griffin.

First the gloves are visually inspected and inflated to look for obvious physical defects. If they pass those tests, they’re placed in a machine and filled with water. An electrode goes in each glove.
The gloves are then subjected to 21,500 volts of electricity for one minute. If there’s a failure — even as small as a pinpoint — an alarm sounds in the test chamber and the glove is removed and made unusable.

“It’s nice knowing that when the guys grab the equipment they’re going to be safe,” said Williams.

To make the process more environmentally friendly, the lab workers are designing a system to recycle the 14 gallons of water used to test each batch of gloves. The lab also is involved in recycling the failed rubber products to keep them from reaching landfills.

Lab workers are currently testing the newest incarnation of the rubber glove. PG&E worked with the manufacturer to create a glove that’s more ergonomically sound. PG&E is the first utility in the United States to use the new gloves.

“Employees asked for an improved glove, we worked with the manufacturer to develop it and we tested it in the lab and in the field,” says PG&E Director Jeff Borders. “Employees loved it and now it’s rolling out.”

Paxton — a former line worker — says the new gloves offer a better fit and are much more comfortable.

These next-generation gloves are being delivered now to all locations during regular replacement shipments.

Nothing is more important than helping ensure that electric workers are safe when restoring power or upgrading electric lines. As the lab’s motto says, “Your Safety Is Our Business.”

The complete process of how to build a concrete table without any specialty tools. It’s an affordable way to make high end and beautiful furniture. For the complete tutorial and materials list check out DIYPETE.com. Please note that

For more info, project photos, and downloadable plans check out:

http://www.diypete.com/how-to-build-a-concrete-table/

The buffet table I made is 17″wide by 52″ long by 1.5″ thick. Here is a diagram showing how I made the mold.

Cut the bottom of the mold out of melamine using a circular saw
This piece should be the exact width and length you’d like the concrete table to be.

Cut the strips that will border the bottom piece
If you want a 1.5″ thick concrete slab, add 3/4″ to the strips so they are 2.25″ tall. This accommodates for the bottom of the mold.

Assemble the sides of the mold.
Attach using 1 5/8 inch black drywall screws about every 8-12 inches. Drill a pilot hole to help it go in easier. Make sure to drill in from the side as evenly as possible.

Complete the mold
Once assembled, the mold will look like the photo below. You will now have a structure which concrete can be poured in. Note — the actual top of your concrete table will be very smooth because it will cure against the smooth and flat melamine surfaces. The part that you screed and trowel later on will actually be the bottom side. You will flip the mold once the project has cured.

Caulk the creases in your mold.
In the video I use a squeeze tube of 100% silicon caulk. You can also use a caulk gun. Then run a caulk tool to smooth it out. You can also use painters tape to get an even caulk line as pictured below.

Cut Re-enforcement
Once the caulk has cured, go ahead and cut the re-enforcement to size using a bolt cutter. If your table is 52″ long by 17″ in width, cut the metal wiring to about 50″ by 15″. It will leave about an inch of play on each side. Then use rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to thoroughly clean the mold, making sure all sawdust and particles are out of the mold.

It’s time to mix up the concrete. Follow the directs on the bag to see how much water they recommend adding. I like to pour some water into the tub prior to the concrete to minimize dust. Wear a dust mask for this process because the particles are not good to breathe. Mix 1 or 2 bags of concrete at a time. To stir up the concrete use a small shovel or garden hoe. I like to mix it to a peanut butter consistency.

Pack Concrete
Take a handful of concrete (wearing your rubber gloves of course), and start packing the concrete into the mold. *Don’t forget to make sure your work table is as level as possible prior to packing the concrete.

Add Re-enforcement
Once the mold is filled up a little more than half way you’ll want to add the re-enforcement. Simply put the re-enforcement in place and then finish packing the rest of the mold with concrete.

Fill and screed
Fill the mold with concrete until it is full. Take an old 2×4 or straight piece of wood and screed off the excess to level out the concrete. Move the 2×4 in a sawing motion. Continue back and forth across the entire mold (multiple times) and fill in any low spots with extra concrete. Check that your work table is still level. You can always shim if needed.

Remove concrete from the mold
Remove all the drywall screws. Next, take a chisel and slowly pry the wood side away from the concrete. Make sure not to let the chisel (or flathead screwdriver ) touch the concrete.

Flip the concrete and remove top of mold
Slowly flip the concrete. It helps to have two people. I like to take a few shop rags or foam to put under the concrete so when it is flipped vertically there is something for it to rest softly on. Continue flipping the piece and rest it on a few spare boards. Resting it on boards that are evenly spaced will allow the piece to dry thoroughly.

Sand concrete
Use an orbital sander to smooth the piece. You will expose a few more bug holes but that is okay. Run the sander on the sides and corners as well. The top edges will be pretty rough. You’ll fill in the rough area with portland cement after this process.

Apply Sealer
Use a clean rag and get any remaining dust off the concrete. Next, find a new rag and use it to apply a stone or concrete sealer. These can be found at a local hardware store. Read the instructions to find out the best way to apply the sealer. Once the sealer drys I like to wax the piece.
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Pete Sveen
1627 W Main Street Suite 182
Bozeman, Montana 59715