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In this brief video I discuss how I like to remove the reeded edge of a coin ring in the event of existing knicks and/or damage done to the reeds during the forging process; as well as how to round out the thinner, rough cut side of my coin rings. Props to Dave for “coining” the term “coin ring lips”!

To pick up a Set of the Finishing and Polishing Mandrels shown in the video, click on this link: http://etsy.me/1UcRSJ1

* For a complete list of the highest quality coin ring-making tools, visit my Shop page at:

http://www.CoinRingUSA.com

The advantage to using the Rounding, Finishing, and Polishing mandrel Set is that as the ring is held on tightly to the tapered mandrel that’s spinning while being attached to your power drill; it acts much like a small lathe, providing a much more uniform finish to the ring than can be achieved with either hand-sanding, using a nail buffing file, a steel round-file, or even a small rotary tool such as a Dremel.

*** TO BEGIN ***

1.) Determine which size tapered rubber mandrel fits your completed coin ring, and slide the coin ring on to it.

2.) Place the mandrel bit into your power drill and tighten.

3.) Adjust the coin ring until it’s well-balanced with no “wobbling” on the mandrel with your power drill on, and then expand the mandrel by tightening the Stainless Steel Phillips head set screw at the top which holds the coin ring securely in place.

4.) Begin on the outer edge of the coin ring with the coarser 100 Grit sandpaper and work your way around to the inner edge of the coin ring; making sure that ONLY the corner tip of the sandpaper is making contact with the unfinished inner, top, and outer edges of your coin ring to prevent damage to the rings’ detail. Take your time with this step; especially when you’re first starting out.

5.) Continue to work the inner, top, and outer edges of whichever side of your coin ring you’re working on using the finer Grits of sandpaper as you go; finishing with “0000” Steel Wool. You can also use the steel wool and LIGHTLY go over the inner and the outer detail of the coin ring before you either polish it with a jeweler’s cloth or after you’ve put a patina (antique-looking) finish on the ring.

6.) The final step is to use a jeweler’s cloth to both buff and finish-polish your coin ring.

Your coin ring will now have a highly-smoothed, rounded, and polished edge on both the reeded and the non-reeded side that is not often seen on coin rings!

Other materials needed: a power drill, 3 different grits of sandpaper; (I use 200 Grit, 500 Grit, and 1,000 Grit), some “0000” Steel Wool, and a jeweler’s polishing cloth to complete this process. Those items can be purchased from Amazon.com; at a big box store like Home Depot, or any local hardware store inexpensively.

*** SAFETY FIRST ***
- Always wear safety glasses and work gloves.
- Always use caution when working with any power tools and electricity.
- Keep fingers, long hair, and loose clothing away from any fast moving parts.

Description: “How to Remove the “Coin Ring Lips”, Damaged Reeds, and Smooth the Rough Coin Ring Edges”

Inexpensive Quality Glasses at http://www.visio-rx.com

Broke your acetate glasses? Here’s how to fix them This method will only work for pure acetate frames (and not regular plastic or TR-90 frames; they are different!).

View this video to find out the difference: http://youtu.be/B-NXKCmCYRo

See also our other videos with helpful tips on glasses repairs.

Visio-Rx is not responsible for any misuse of information presented in this video.

Glasses, Help and Info at http://www.visio-rx.com
You will not be disappointed!

Video text transcript

You will need

1. Your broken glasses
2. A bottle of pure acetone (available
at most hardware stores).

Carefully pour acetone into the cap of the bottle.
BEWARE: ACETONE IS VERY FLAMMABLE!.

Carefully set your broken glasses in the acetone.

Let the frame soak for 2 minutes.

After 2 minutes, take the glasses out of the acetone.

The acetone has softened the acetate, allowing you to fuse the glasses back together.

Apply equal pressure to both sides and hold the pieces together until they are stuck together without aid.

Now, the frame needs to dry for 24 hours.

24 hours later…

Once the glasses are dry, you may want to smooth the area where the glasses were fused together.

To do this, simply dip your finger in acetone and gently
rub out the uneven areas of the frame.

While doing this, be extremely careful not to spill acetone on the lenses, as this may ruin the lens coating.

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